本文關(guān)鍵詞： 唐代 梳篦 首飾 設(shè)計(jì)　出處：《中國地質(zhì)大學(xué)（北京）》2014年碩士論文　論文類型：學(xué)位論文

【摘要】：唐代是我國在歷史變遷中極富特點(diǎn)且政治經(jīng)濟(jì)到達(dá)頂峰的時(shí)期。疆域遼闊、政治開明、經(jīng)濟(jì)發(fā)達(dá)、民族交融、文化繁盛、民風(fēng)開化的唐代給我們留下了許多不可多得的物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)。在這一時(shí)期，工藝美術(shù)隨著社會(huì)環(huán)境的影響，日漸繁榮。在金銀器、絲綢、陶瓷、玉器方面均有建樹。并且，隨著絲綢之路的發(fā)展，西域文化與中原文化的交融形成了一種獨(dú)特的唐風(fēng)，這種中西合璧式的工藝美術(shù)作品對(duì)后世影響極大。 梳篦自良渚文化起源至今已有六千年的歷史，在這歷史長河中，因?yàn)橛猛镜牟煌湫沃圃诿總�(gè)朝代更迭都展現(xiàn)不同的時(shí)代特點(diǎn)。將梳篦插在發(fā)間做裝飾自商周時(shí)期就已出現(xiàn)，發(fā)展至唐代達(dá)到頂峰。它不僅僅作為日常梳妝的實(shí)用品，，還作為隨葬、貢品、賞賜品等。這種插梳風(fēng)習(xí)在唐代甚是流行，究其原因，與社會(huì)政治經(jīng)濟(jì)、文化、民族交流、女性社會(huì)地位變化、服飾變化等因素都有潛在的聯(lián)系。這種風(fēng)習(xí)也促進(jìn)了梳篦在藝術(shù)形態(tài)上的發(fā)展，無論從材質(zhì)、裝飾還是工藝方面都堪稱完美。這些藝術(shù)特點(diǎn)傳承至今有的流失有的仍為現(xiàn)代首飾設(shè)計(jì)的靈感來源，運(yùn)用現(xiàn)代化、個(gè)性化的發(fā)展模式，將古老與現(xiàn)代相結(jié)合，才是適應(yīng)當(dāng)代首飾潮流的新方向。 本文以文獻(xiàn)引用法作為基本的研究方法。將實(shí)物與文獻(xiàn)資料相結(jié)合，依據(jù)實(shí)際情況，分時(shí)期、分地區(qū)特征進(jìn)行研究。通過橫向和縱向兩條主線貫穿分析唐代梳篦的藝術(shù)特點(diǎn)及用途變革。一.將唐前梳篦發(fā)展做大體概況，梳理自梳篦起源至唐代前梳篦形制樣式，為唐代梳篦發(fā)展奠定基礎(chǔ)。二.將唐代劃分為初唐、盛唐、中唐、晚唐四個(gè)時(shí)期，剖析每個(gè)時(shí)期的政治、經(jīng)濟(jì)、文化、女性社會(huì)地位與梳篦發(fā)展之間的聯(lián)系。三.闡述唐代梳篦的材質(zhì)、造型、裝飾及工藝，總結(jié)在這四方面的藝術(shù)特點(diǎn)。四.從四方面藝術(shù)特點(diǎn)中選擇與時(shí)代風(fēng)貌相符的裝飾特點(diǎn)作現(xiàn)代首飾設(shè)計(jì)實(shí)踐并闡述其在當(dāng)代首飾設(shè)計(jì)中的影響。
[Abstract]:The Tang Dynasty was a period in which the history of China was characterized by great characteristics and the political economy reached its peak. It was a period of vast territory, enlightened politics, developed economy, mixed ethnic groups and prosperous culture. The civilized Tang Dynasty left us with a lot of rare material and cultural heritage. In this period, arts and crafts along with the social environment, increasingly prosperous. In gold and silver, silk, ceramics. With the development of the Silk Road, the blending of Western culture and Central Plains culture formed a unique style of Tang Dynasty, and the combination of Chinese and Western arts and crafts had a great influence on later generations. Comb has a history of 6,000 years since the origin of Liangzhu culture. Because of the different uses of its shape in each dynasty change to show different characteristics of the times. The comb inserted in the hair as decoration since the Shang and Zhou dynasties have appeared. To the peak of Tang Dynasty. It is not only as a daily dressing practical goods, but also as funerals, tribute, gifts, etc. This style of intercalation is very popular in the Tang Dynasty, the reason, and social politics, economy, culture. Ethnic exchanges, women's social status changes, clothing changes and other factors have potential links. This kind of customs also promote the development of comb in the art form, whether from the material. Adornment or craftsmanship can be called perfect. Some of these artistic characteristics have been lost so far some of them are still the inspiration source of modern jewelry design, using the modern, personalized development model, the combination of ancient and modern. It is a new direction to adapt to the trend of contemporary jewelry. This paper takes the literature citation method as the basic research method, combines the material object with the literature material, according to the actual situation, divides into periods. Through the horizontal and vertical two main lines through the analysis of the Tang Dynasty comb art characteristics and uses of change. 1. The development of comb before the Tang Dynasty to do a general overview. Combed from the origin of the Tang Dynasty to the comb before the Tang Dynasty to lay a foundation for the development of comb. Second, the Tang Dynasty is divided into the early Tang Dynasty, prosperous Tang Dynasty, the mid-Tang Dynasty, the late Tang Dynasty, the analysis of each period of politics, economy, culture. The relationship between the social status of women and the development of comb. Third, the material, modeling, decoration and technology of the comb in the Tang Dynasty. This paper summarizes the artistic characteristics in these four aspects. (4) from the four aspects of artistic characteristics, choose the decorative features which are consistent with the style and features of the times as the practice of modern jewelry design and expound its influence in the contemporary jewelry design.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：中國地質(zhì)大學(xué)（北京）
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2014
【分類號(hào)】：J528

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