本文關(guān)鍵詞：迭部藏族女性服飾研究　出處：《中央民族大學》2015年碩士論文　論文類型：學位論文

  更多相關(guān)文章： 迭部藏族 女性服飾 文化特點

【摘要】：服飾是人類所獨有的勞動成果,它是物質(zhì)文明和精神文明的結(jié)晶和含義,也是社會政治、經(jīng)濟、文化、意識形態(tài)等各個方面的綜合作用的結(jié)果；它是我們了解這個社會和文化的一枚鑰匙,我們通過服飾能了解更多的文化信息。生活在甘肅省甘南藏族自治州東南部一帶的迭部藏族,居住在白龍江上游秦嶺山脈延伸之岷疊山巒地帶,因交通不便,長期處于較封閉和傳統(tǒng)的社會中,形成了獨具特色的服飾民俗。隨著社會的不斷發(fā)展,迭部服飾亦發(fā)生了相應(yīng)的變化和發(fā)展,從中我們可以窺視到當?shù)夭刈迦嗣竦纳盍曀�、審美情�?以及種種的文化心態(tài)、宗教觀念等。迭部藏族服飾因其獨特的魅力,成為當?shù)芈糜谓?jīng)濟發(fā)展的寶貴文化資源,不但成為當?shù)匚幕糜涡麄鞯闹匾d體,而且豐富了藏族服飾的多樣性。本文從迭部藏族的傳統(tǒng)服飾出發(fā),梳理了迭部藏族服飾在地域環(huán)境、生產(chǎn)方式、歷史發(fā)展的影響下,所產(chǎn)生的種種變異及特點。位于沿白龍江下行到卡壩路附近的上迭地區(qū)的女性服飾變化不大,基本上保持了上述描述的特點。變化較大的是位于卡壩路至代古寺之間的下迭地區(qū)女性服飾。從原先的上下不連體：上衣為天藍色襯衣、褲裝為黑色的大襠褲,演變?yōu)楫斀裨诠?jié)日時婦女們穿著的旗袍式樣的各色綢緞上下連體服飾。由于地域環(huán)境的不同,逐漸形成了上迭、中迭、下迭地區(qū)的服飾差別,同時顯示了其年齡、婚否等信息。從中可以看出地域環(huán)境的因素對當?shù)胤椀目钍�、色彩、質(zhì)料以及符號寓意等,都具有很大的影響。然而隨著科學技術(shù)和社會經(jīng)濟的不斷發(fā)展,人們的生活水平也隨之發(fā)生巨大的變化,人與人之間的交流,人與外面世界的交流也開始變得頻繁,從而將各種服飾的信息傳入當?shù)?使各鄉(xiāng)服飾間的差異亦越來越小,“同化”和“異化”的現(xiàn)象亦越來越快的轉(zhuǎn)換中,因此地域環(huán)境對于服飾的影響,也在逐漸的變小。迭部藏族服飾體現(xiàn)了本身的歷史發(fā)展軌跡,同為藏緬語族的各個民族,雖然在歷史發(fā)展的洪流當中,發(fā)展為差別各異的民族,但表現(xiàn)出了傳承性的服飾文化元素,如下迭地區(qū)的婦女頭帕及精致的繡花針套。同時也說明了當?shù)夭刈宓淖逶磫栴},學術(shù)界較流行的氐羌說與吐蕃東移之說都有一定的道理,如多兒等地的藏族至今都流傳自己是吐蕃東遷時來時達布的軍隊后裔,其獨特的服飾更是說明了服飾對于一個民族來說是一部沒有文字的歷史文獻,是了解和認識一個民族的絕好史料。迭部藏族服飾體現(xiàn)了其鮮明的民俗特征。就服飾的色彩而言具體體現(xiàn)了以黑為美、以白為尚的審美心理。迭部藏族服飾的穿戴習慣及服飾的制作工藝都蘊含了其歷史、宗教等的文化內(nèi)涵。反映了當?shù)夭刈迦嗣竦脑夹叛黾叭f物有靈的觀念。如下迭一帶婦女足登奇數(shù)多層納底靴子及婦女佩戴“瑯昂”與“夯藏”時選擇在女性十九、二十一等奇數(shù)年齡時舉行成人儀式的現(xiàn)象。本文最后對迭部藏族女性服飾在現(xiàn)代化進程中的作用進行了分析,旨在引起更多的人了解迭部,關(guān)注迭部藏族悠久的服飾文化,為保護和搶救這份寶貴的民俗遺產(chǎn),出一份自已的微薄之力。
[Abstract]:Clothing is the result of unique human labor, it is the crystallization and meaning of the material civilization and spiritual civilization, but also social and political, economic, cultural, ideological and other aspects of the comprehensive results; it is our understanding of the social and cultural key, we can learn more through the clothing culture life information. In the Gansu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Gannan Province in southeastern area of Diebu Tibetans, living in the White Mountains of Qinling Mountains Longjiang extends upstream of the Min Mountains fold belt, because of the inconvenience of traffic, long-term in a closed and traditional society, formed a unique folk costumes. With the continuous development of society, tewo clothing is also changed and the corresponding development, from which we can see the local Tibetan people's life custom, aesthetic taste, and a variety of cultural mentality, religious beliefs. Diebu Tibetan clothing because of its unique charm, Become valuable cultural resources for the development of local tourism economy, not only become an important carrier of local culture and tourism promotion, but also enriches the diversity of Tibetan costumes. The costumes of Diebu Tibetan, combing the Tibetan costume in Diebu region environment, mode of production, the influence of the historical development, all kinds of variations and characteristics are produced. Located along the white Longjiang down to women's clothing change card Dam Road in the vicinity of the stack area is small, basically keeps the characteristics described above. Larger changes are located between the dam road to the temple of the card on behalf of the lower area of women's clothing. From the original down is not connected: coat is sky blue shirt and trousers for the big black pants, the evolution of women wearing cheongsam style in today's holiday colored silk dress on separation. Due to different geographical environment, gradually formed on Diego Diego, in the lower area. Different costumes, and shows its age, marital status and other information. It can be seen that the style, geographical environment factors on the local clothing color, material and symbolic meaning, has a great influence. However, with the continuous development of science and technology and social economy, people's living standard has also undergone tremendous changes. The exchange between people, people and the outside world communication becomes frequent, which will be a variety of clothing information to the local, make a difference between each township clothing is also more and more small, "assimilation" and "alienation" phenomenon is more and more quick conversion, so the influence of geographical environment on the dress. In gradually become smaller. The Tibetan costume embodies the Diebu history itself, with each nation as the Tibeto Burman languages, although in the tide of historical development, for the development of different ethnic differences, but showed. The clothing culture element, following Diego area woman headband and exquisite embroidery needle sets. At the same time also shows that the problem of local Tibetan ethnic origin, academic popular Diqiang said that East and Tibet have some truth, as many children as the Tibetan has spread his Tibet eastward the army to the descendants of Darboux its unique clothing, is that fashion is not a literal historical documents for a nation, is a good understanding of historical data of a nation. The vast Tibetan costume Diebu embody its distinctive folk characteristics. Dress color reflects the specific black beauty, white is still the aesthetic psychology. Production process of wear habits and dress of the clothing Diebu Tibetans contains the history, religion and other cultural connotations. To reflect the original belief and all the local Tibetan people's spiritual ideas as follows. Diego area women's foot board odd women wearing boots and nano multilayer bottom "ang Lang" and "RAM Tibet" selection in nineteen women, twenty-one odd age adult ceremony held phenomenon. This paper finally analyzes the role of women's clothing in Diebu Tibetans in the process of modernization, to attract more people to understand tewo. Pay attention to clothing culture Diebu Tibetans long, to protect and save the precious heritage of folklore, a copy of their own meager strength.

【學位授予單位】：中央民族大學
【學位級別】：碩士
【學位授予年份】：2015
【分類號】：TS941.12

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