從“月份牌”廣告看民國女性服飾審美意象的構建
發(fā)布時間：2018-12-15 01:23
【摘要】：服飾是人類情感的視覺化,具有無窮的生命力,她代表著一個民族、一個國家的社會歷史和人文色彩。中國的服飾審美文化,一方面體現(xiàn)著中華民族炎黃子孫偉大的物質(zhì)文化的創(chuàng)造,同時也凝聚和滲透著中國“天人合一”的哲學觀念。中國真正具有中華民族色彩的服飾成熟于民國時期,這個時期處處充斥著中國傳統(tǒng)文化和西方現(xiàn)代文明沖突與融合。 從鴉片戰(zhàn)爭開始,中國在資本主義軍事、經(jīng)濟、文化的侵略下,傳統(tǒng)的封建社會解體,與之配套的規(guī)章制度、風俗習慣、審美意象等也日漸消失。在眾多的變革中,思想解放運動和女權運動進行得如火如荼。受到西方平等、自由思想的影響,女性在思想上、人格上追求解放和自由,首先體現(xiàn)在人們衣著以及生活方式上的巨大改變。女子服飾從簡單的衣領變化,發(fā)展到帶有政治傾向和文化否定意味的廓形改變。整個過程呈現(xiàn)出從傳統(tǒng)開始,到西化,后又復歸于“改進的傳統(tǒng)”的發(fā)展態(tài)勢。這期間體現(xiàn)著民國時期的女性在不斷地爭取自身的權利、地位、自由、解放,她們開始崇尚健康的生活方式�！霸路菖啤睆V告是她們解放的見證者和引導者,它是民國時期影響最廣的宣傳廣告,以當下最為流行的女性形象作為表現(xiàn)對象,引領著整個中國的服飾潮流�！霸路菖啤睆V告的發(fā)展歷程展現(xiàn)著整個民國時期的生活面貌,是一本最為直觀的歷史圖冊。對民國時期女性服飾進行研究,“月份牌”廣告可以提供最具有歷史價值、圖像價值的第一手資料。 民國女性服飾將傳統(tǒng)文化與現(xiàn)代文明有機地結合起來,創(chuàng)造了影響中國乃至全世界的服飾——旗袍。她是中國傳統(tǒng)的民族文化與西方現(xiàn)代文明的結合體,融合了漢、滿、洋的文化精髓,她不僅代表著民國時期社會面貌,同樣代表著今后中國的社會面貌。她將審美的“形式語言——象”與“情感語言——意”完美地結合起來,達到“錯彩鏤金”之美、“初發(fā)芙蓉”之美和“兼容并蓄”之美,這對中國乃至全世界當代服裝設計都有著重要的影響作用,是我們作為中華兒女引以為豪的經(jīng)典之作。
[Abstract]:Dress is the visual of human emotion, with infinite vitality, it represents a nation, a country's social history and humanistic color. On the one hand, the aesthetic culture of Chinese dress embodies the creation of great material culture of the Chinese people, but also condenses and permeates the Chinese philosophy of "the unity of nature and man". Chinese dress with Chinese color matured in the period of the Republic of China, which was full of conflict and fusion of Chinese traditional culture and western modern civilization. Since the Opium War, under the invasion of capitalist military, economy and culture, the traditional feudal society disintegrated, the rules and regulations, customs and habits, aesthetic image and so on gradually disappeared. In many changes, the ideological liberation movement and the feminist movement are in full swing. Influenced by the thought of equality and freedom in the West, women pursue liberation and freedom in thought and personality, which is reflected in the great changes in people's clothing and way of life. Women's dress changed from simple collar to profile change with political tendency and cultural negation. The whole process presents a trend of development from tradition to westernization, and then to "improved tradition". During this period, women in the Republic of China were constantly striving for their rights, status, freedom and liberation, and they began to advocate a healthy way of life. The "month sign" advertisement is the witness and guide of their liberation. It is the most influential advertisement in the period of the Republic of China. It takes the most popular female image as the object of expression and leads the fashion trend of the whole China. The development of the advertisement shows the life of the whole period of the Republic of China and is the most intuitionistic historical atlas. In the study of women's clothing in the period of the Republic of China, the advertisement can provide firsthand information of historical value and image value. The dress of the Republic of China combines the traditional culture with the modern civilization organically, and creates the dress that affects China and even the whole world-cheongsam. She is the combination of Chinese traditional national culture and western modern civilization, which combines the essence of Han, Manchu and foreign cultures. She not only represents the social outlook of the Republic of China, but also represents the social outlook of China in the future. She perfectly combines the aesthetic "formal language" with "emotional language" to achieve the beauty of "staggered hollowed-out", the beauty of "initial hibiscus" and "all-inclusive" beauty. This has an important impact on contemporary fashion design in China and the world, and is a classic we are proud of as Chinese people.
【學位授予單位】：湖南工業(yè)大學
【學位級別】：碩士
【學位授予年份】：2010
【分類號】：J523.5
本文編號：2379685
[Abstract]:Dress is the visual of human emotion, with infinite vitality, it represents a nation, a country's social history and humanistic color. On the one hand, the aesthetic culture of Chinese dress embodies the creation of great material culture of the Chinese people, but also condenses and permeates the Chinese philosophy of "the unity of nature and man". Chinese dress with Chinese color matured in the period of the Republic of China, which was full of conflict and fusion of Chinese traditional culture and western modern civilization. Since the Opium War, under the invasion of capitalist military, economy and culture, the traditional feudal society disintegrated, the rules and regulations, customs and habits, aesthetic image and so on gradually disappeared. In many changes, the ideological liberation movement and the feminist movement are in full swing. Influenced by the thought of equality and freedom in the West, women pursue liberation and freedom in thought and personality, which is reflected in the great changes in people's clothing and way of life. Women's dress changed from simple collar to profile change with political tendency and cultural negation. The whole process presents a trend of development from tradition to westernization, and then to "improved tradition". During this period, women in the Republic of China were constantly striving for their rights, status, freedom and liberation, and they began to advocate a healthy way of life. The "month sign" advertisement is the witness and guide of their liberation. It is the most influential advertisement in the period of the Republic of China. It takes the most popular female image as the object of expression and leads the fashion trend of the whole China. The development of the advertisement shows the life of the whole period of the Republic of China and is the most intuitionistic historical atlas. In the study of women's clothing in the period of the Republic of China, the advertisement can provide firsthand information of historical value and image value. The dress of the Republic of China combines the traditional culture with the modern civilization organically, and creates the dress that affects China and even the whole world-cheongsam. She is the combination of Chinese traditional national culture and western modern civilization, which combines the essence of Han, Manchu and foreign cultures. She not only represents the social outlook of the Republic of China, but also represents the social outlook of China in the future. She perfectly combines the aesthetic "formal language" with "emotional language" to achieve the beauty of "staggered hollowed-out", the beauty of "initial hibiscus" and "all-inclusive" beauty. This has an important impact on contemporary fashion design in China and the world, and is a classic we are proud of as Chinese people.
【學位授予單位】：湖南工業(yè)大學
【學位級別】：碩士
【學位授予年份】：2010
【分類號】：J523.5
【引證文獻】
相關碩士學位論文 前1條
1 李婧晗;民國時期婚禮旗袍研究[D];北京服裝學院;2012年
，本文編號：2379685
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