【摘要】：女性肩臂部是研究人體形態(tài)與女裝形態(tài)相互吻合的重要部位之一,直接影響女裝衣袖的造型。由于國標(biāo)原型生成的定制樣板還未能完全符合人體定制精準(zhǔn)度的需求,本論文在分析國內(nèi)外女裝肩臂部結(jié)構(gòu)設(shè)計現(xiàn)狀基礎(chǔ)上,通過對基準(zhǔn)樣板進(jìn)行細(xì)化分類,引入體型分類的“適體原型”概念,以期解決定制精準(zhǔn)度的問題,同時采用三維掃描技術(shù)為女裝衣袖適體原型研究提供數(shù)據(jù)和技術(shù)支持。本課題針對湖北地區(qū)青年女性肩臂部特征開展研究,利用非接觸三維掃描測量技術(shù)自動生成3D人體圖像,同時獲取176項人體特征指標(biāo)參數(shù)。由于肩臂部構(gòu)造復(fù)雜且需考慮活動等方面因素,本課題研究又通過手動操作依次提取肩臂部圍度、肩部厚度、袖山高和腋下到肩點的長度等較難測量的非常用測量部位相關(guān)數(shù)據(jù),利用SPSS、VC和SharpGL三種軟件對數(shù)據(jù)進(jìn)行處理和運算;結(jié)合肩臂部特征數(shù)據(jù),利用繪圖對比的方法分出7類肩臂部形態(tài),并制作出這7類青年女性肩臂部體型特征的基準(zhǔn)衣袖板型。研究內(nèi)容主要分以下五個部分:1、選取200名18~24歲青年女性作為研究樣本,測得了描述肩臂部體型特征的11個觀測變量的樣本數(shù)據(jù)。通過對觀測數(shù)據(jù)的分布檢驗,確定了其正態(tài)分布規(guī)律并對數(shù)據(jù)進(jìn)行了基本統(tǒng)計分析。2、利用SPSS軟件對肩臂部觀測變量進(jìn)行了相關(guān)性分析和主成分分析,確定了各參數(shù)之間的相互關(guān)系,提取了反映肩臂部整體信息的主要因素,為肩臂部體型分類提供了可靠依據(jù);3、利用帶入觀測數(shù)據(jù)進(jìn)行形態(tài)繪圖的方法對肩臂部結(jié)構(gòu)進(jìn)行歸納和分析,結(jié)合衣袖板型的需求,選取與肩臂部有關(guān)的14項特征參數(shù)進(jìn)行分類,將肩部圍度、肩點到腋下長、上臂厚度等進(jìn)行繪圖分析,最終得到七類肩臂部特征形態(tài)圖;4、利用富怡服裝CAD制板技術(shù)對所得的七類肩臂部類型繪制衣袖基準(zhǔn)板型,實現(xiàn)造型與結(jié)構(gòu)之間的配伍性研究;5、在服裝結(jié)構(gòu)設(shè)計、人體工效學(xué)、數(shù)理統(tǒng)計和計算機學(xué)科的交叉融合方面深入研究,提出適合款式發(fā)展及作圖過程相對簡單的系列衣袖原型,運用VC和SharpGL軟件建立該群體女裝衣袖原型結(jié)構(gòu)圖的自動生成系統(tǒng),形成從測體到服裝推板的迅速反應(yīng)系統(tǒng)。
[Abstract]:The shoulders and arms of women are one of the important parts in the study of the matching of the human body shape and the women's dress form, which directly affect the shape of the women's clothing sleeve. Because the customized template generated by the GB prototype can not fully meet the needs of human customization accuracy, this paper analyzes the status quo of the design of the shoulder arm structure of women's clothing at home and abroad, and then classifies the reference template in detail. The concept of "aptamer prototype" is introduced in order to solve the problem of custom-made precision. At the same time, 3D scanning technology is used to provide data and technical support for the study of aptamer prototype of women's clothing sleeve. In this paper, the characteristics of shoulder and arm of young women in Hubei area were studied. The 3D human body image was automatically generated by using non-contact 3D scanning measurement technology, and 176 parameters of human body characteristics were obtained at the same time. Because of the complex structure of the shoulder and arm and the need to consider the factors such as movement, the paper extracts the circumference and thickness of the shoulder and arm in turn by manual operation. The data related to the uncommonly used measuring parts, such as the height of sleeve hill and the length of armpit to shoulder point, are processed and calculated by SPSS VC and SharpGL, and the characteristic data of shoulder and arm are combined. By using the method of drawing and comparing, 7 kinds of shoulder and arm shape were distinguished, and the reference sleeve plate of the seven kinds of young women's shoulder and arm shape was made. The main contents of the study were divided into five parts: 1. 200 young women aged 18 or 24 years were selected as the study samples, and 11 observation variables were measured to describe the characteristics of shoulder and arm shape. By testing the distribution of the observed data, the normal distribution law is determined and the basic statistical analysis of the data is made. The correlation analysis and principal component analysis of the shoulder and arm observation variables are carried out by using SPSS software. The relationships among the parameters are determined, and the main factors reflecting the whole information of the shoulder and arm are extracted. This paper provides a reliable basis for the classification of the shoulder and arm shape. The structure of the shoulder and arm is summarized and analyzed by using the method of bringing in the observation data to carry out the morphological mapping. According to the needs of the sleeve type, 14 characteristic parameters related to the shoulder and arm are selected for classification. By drawing and analyzing the shoulder circumference, shoulder point to armpit length, upper arm thickness and so on, seven kinds of characteristic shape map of shoulder and arm are obtained. By using the CAD board technology of Fuyi clothing, the sleeve reference plate of the seven types of shoulder and arm is drawn. In order to achieve the compatibility between modeling and structure, a series of sleeve prototypes, which are suitable for style development and relatively simple drawing process, are put forward in the aspects of clothing structure design, ergonomics, mathematical statistics, computer science and the cross-integration of garment structure design, ergonomics, mathematical statistics and computer science. By using VC and SharpGL software, the automatic generating system of the prototype structure chart of women's clothing sleeve was established, and the rapid reaction system from measuring body to clothing pushing board was formed.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：武漢紡織大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2017
【分類號】：TS941.26

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