本文關(guān)鍵詞： 畬族傳統(tǒng)服飾 畬族織錦帶 文化特征 現(xiàn)代服裝設(shè)計(jì) 創(chuàng)新應(yīng)用　出處：《北京服裝學(xué)院》2017年碩士論文　論文類型：學(xué)位論文

【摘要】：畬族,是我國(guó)人口較少的民族之一,畬族自稱“山哈”,意為居住在山里的客人。畬族在長(zhǎng)期的歷史遷移和民族發(fā)展過(guò)程中形成了“大分散、小聚居”的特性,尤以畬漢雜居形態(tài)居多,浙閩地區(qū)的畬族服裝制作、銀器制作,以及織錦帶編織等傳統(tǒng)技藝相繼被列入省級(jí)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)名錄。值得注意的是,不同地區(qū)的畬族傳統(tǒng)服飾雖然存在一脈相承的延續(xù)性,同時(shí)也具有各自地域文化的獨(dú)特性。福建霞浦半月里畬族村坐落于群山環(huán)繞之中,閉塞的生活環(huán)境為我們研究畬族民間藝術(shù)提供了相對(duì)充足的材料與依據(jù)。本課題主要通過(guò)對(duì)福建半月里畬族村的田野調(diào)查,以及對(duì)歷史資料、相關(guān)著作的搜集、博物館的調(diào)查研究相結(jié)合的方法,挖掘畬族織錦帶深厚的歷史淵源、審美藝術(shù)和文化內(nèi)涵。在設(shè)計(jì)應(yīng)用方面,首先要梳理并確定畬族織錦帶典型樣式與核心設(shè)計(jì)要素,分析畬族織錦帶美學(xué)意義及構(gòu)成,為后來(lái)者傳承、開(kāi)發(fā)、應(yīng)用提供依據(jù);其次,以現(xiàn)代服飾設(shè)計(jì)手法及審美標(biāo)準(zhǔn),并從當(dāng)代畬族生活方式和著裝需求出發(fā),通過(guò)對(duì)畬族織錦帶藝術(shù)的現(xiàn)代解讀,將傳統(tǒng)畬族織錦帶核心要素進(jìn)行提取、轉(zhuǎn)化、延展、再應(yīng)用等設(shè)計(jì)方法,實(shí)現(xiàn)對(duì)畬族織錦帶的創(chuàng)新,在此基礎(chǔ)上,從現(xiàn)代審美觀念和設(shè)計(jì)理念出發(fā),遵循形式關(guān)法則,運(yùn)用“形神同構(gòu)”的設(shè)計(jì)方法,在保留織錦帶傳統(tǒng)韻味的基礎(chǔ)上加以創(chuàng)新,并結(jié)合現(xiàn)代服裝設(shè)計(jì)中民族元素的應(yīng)用案例以及自己的系列設(shè)計(jì)作品,對(duì)所論述內(nèi)容進(jìn)行佐證。本課題的研究,一方面豐富了畬族服飾文化領(lǐng)域的研究,另一方面,在設(shè)計(jì)中尋找從民族傳統(tǒng)藝術(shù)中汲取營(yíng)養(yǎng)的方法,探索民族藝術(shù)與現(xiàn)代設(shè)計(jì)語(yǔ)言結(jié)合的切入點(diǎn),將民族傳統(tǒng)服飾特色融入到現(xiàn)代設(shè)計(jì)中,這不僅是對(duì)畬族服飾文化的保護(hù)、傳承與延續(xù),而且有利于加深現(xiàn)代人對(duì)民族服飾文化的價(jià)值認(rèn)同,以期為傳承民族服飾文化和豐富現(xiàn)代服裝多樣性提供參考,具有應(yīng)用價(jià)值和理論研究?jī)r(jià)值。
[Abstract]:The she nationality, one of the ethnic groups with a relatively small population in China, calls itself "Shanha", meaning the guests living in the mountains. During the long history of migration and the development of the nationality, the she nationality has formed the characteristic of "large dispersion and small settlement". In particular, the traditional techniques of she nationality clothing production, silverware making, and brocade belt weaving were listed on the list of provincial intangible cultural heritage, especially in the mixed forms of she and Han nationalities. It is worth noting that the traditional techniques of the she nationality in the area of Zhejiang and Fujian have been included in the list of intangible cultural heritages at provincial level. The she nationality's traditional dress in different areas has a continuity of continuity and also has the uniqueness of its own regional culture. The she village in Xiapu, Fujian Province, is surrounded by mountains for half a month. The closed living environment provides us with relatively sufficient materials and basis for the study of folk art of the she nationality. This subject is mainly based on the field investigation of the she nationality village in Fujian half a month, as well as the collection of historical materials and related works. The methods of investigation and research of the museum are combined to excavate the deep historical origin, aesthetic art and cultural connotation of the she nationality brocade belt. In the design and application, the typical style and core design elements of the she nationality brocade belt should be combed and determined. This paper analyzes the aesthetic significance and composition of she nationality brocade belt, which provides the basis for the inheritance, development and application of the she nationality's brocade belt. Secondly, based on the modern dress design techniques and aesthetic standards, and from the contemporary she nationality life style and dress needs, Through the modern interpretation of the she nationality brocade belt art, the traditional she nationality brocade belt core elements are extracted, transformed, extended and reapplied to realize the innovation of the she nationality brocade belt. Proceeding from the modern aesthetic concept and design idea, following the law of formal relation and applying the design method of "form and spirit isomorphism", the paper innovates on the basis of retaining the traditional charm of tapestry. And combined with the application of ethnic elements in modern fashion design and their own series of design works, the content of this paper is supported. On the one hand, the research of this topic enriches the research in the field of she nationality clothing culture, on the other hand, It is not only the protection of the she nationality costume culture to seek the method of drawing nutrition from the traditional national art in the design, to explore the cut-in point of the combination of the national art and the modern design language, but also to integrate the characteristics of the national traditional dress into the modern design. Inheritance and continuation are conducive to deepening the value identity of modern people to the national costume culture, in order to provide a reference for the inheritance of national costume culture and enrich the diversity of modern clothing, which has applied value and theoretical research value.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：北京服裝學(xué)院
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2017
【分類號(hào)】：TS941.2

【引證文獻(xiàn)】

相關(guān)期刊論文 前1條

1 何苗;;紙材料在現(xiàn)代纖維藝術(shù)設(shè)計(jì)中的應(yīng)用研究[J];明日風(fēng)尚;2017年14期

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本文編號(hào)：1505682