【摘要】：云紋,是極具中華民族特色的典型紋樣。云紋始于商周古樸的云雷紋,至清代繁復(fù)纖巧,集歷代之大成,可謂歷久彌新。云紋紋樣本身組合方式多樣,紛繁復(fù)雜且演繹無(wú)窮,其背后更是承載著濃厚的人文氣韻。本文重點(diǎn)研究清代服飾云紋的演變,通過(guò)列表對(duì)比分析的方法,探究云紋在形態(tài)上演變以及色彩的運(yùn)用方式,并在此基礎(chǔ)上,結(jié)合清代政治、經(jīng)濟(jì)、文化等多方面因素,深入探究云紋的文化內(nèi)涵。清代前期云紋多繼承明代云紋特點(diǎn),有朵云、團(tuán)簇云、串云,后出現(xiàn)“壬”字云紋,至雍正時(shí)期,以枝狀云較為典型;清中期經(jīng)濟(jì)繁榮、生產(chǎn)力發(fā)展水平較高,極大促進(jìn)紋樣的發(fā)展,以疊云紋最為典型,其形態(tài)鋪張繁復(fù)、連綿不絕;至清后期國(guó)力漸弱,紋樣重裝飾,但形態(tài)較為匠氣,稍顯呆板。云紋除具有美好、吉祥等寓意外,在清代宮廷服飾中更是神秘、威嚴(yán)、尊貴的象征。由于云本身變化無(wú)窮的特性,針對(duì)云紋就有著諸多的可設(shè)計(jì)性,且云紋本身被賦予了高貴、吉祥等美好愿景,無(wú)論形態(tài)還是內(nèi)在意義與高級(jí)成衣都有諸多契合點(diǎn)。故本文通過(guò)針對(duì)清代服飾云紋理論方面的研究,將清代服飾云紋或直接應(yīng)用或加以變化,并應(yīng)用于現(xiàn)代高級(jí)成衣的設(shè)計(jì)中,力求探索我國(guó)傳統(tǒng)服飾紋樣與現(xiàn)代服裝審美需求的有機(jī)結(jié)合方式。在實(shí)踐設(shè)計(jì)中,筆者主要針對(duì)云形云態(tài)加以變化,應(yīng)用于成衣不同裝飾部位,在符合現(xiàn)代服飾審美的條件下保留云紋本身的美感。最后,希望通過(guò)本次研究過(guò)程,能對(duì)后續(xù)與傳統(tǒng)文化相關(guān)的設(shè)計(jì)工作者及理論研究者有所啟發(fā)有所幫助。
[Abstract]:Moire, is a typical pattern with the characteristics of the Chinese nation. The moire began in the ancient Shang and Zhou dynasties, and it was complex and delicate in the Qing Dynasty. The moire pattern itself combines various ways, complex and deductive, behind it is carrying a strong humanistic charm. This paper focuses on the evolution of dress moire in Qing Dynasty. By means of comparative analysis, it explores the evolution of moire in shape and the application of color. On this basis, it combines the political, economic, cultural and other factors of Qing Dynasty. Deeply explore the cultural connotation of moire. In the early Qing Dynasty, the moire inherited the characteristics of the moire of the Ming Dynasty. There was a cloud, a cluster cloud, a string cloud, and then appeared the "nonnon" character cloud. In the period of Yongzheng, the branch cloud was more typical, and the economic prosperity in the middle Qing Dynasty, the development level of productive forces was relatively high. Greatly promote the development of patterns, the most typical of the stacked moire, its form spread and complex, continuous; to the late Qing Dynasty, the national strength gradually weakened, the pattern was heavily decorated, but the form is more craftsmanship, slightly stiff. In addition to beautiful, auspicious and other moral, moire is a symbol of mystery, majesty and honor in Qing Dynasty palace dress. Because of the changing nature of cloud itself, there are many designability for moire, and the moire itself is endowed with noble, auspicious and beautiful vision. Therefore, through the research on the theory of dress moire in Qing Dynasty, this paper applies it to the design of modern high grade garments. This paper tries to explore the organic combination of Chinese traditional dress pattern and modern costume aesthetic demand. In the practical design, the author mainly changes the cloud state, and applies it to different decorative parts of clothing, keeping the aesthetic feeling of moire itself in accordance with the aesthetic condition of modern dress. Finally, it is hoped that through this research process, it will be helpful to designers and theoretical researchers concerned with traditional culture.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：武漢紡織大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2017
【分類號(hào)】：TS941.2

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本文編號(hào)：2196352