本文關(guān)鍵詞： 民國 上海 時裝業(yè) 鴻翔　出處：《東華大學(xué)》2013年碩士論文　論文類型：學(xué)位論文

【摘要】：二十世紀(jì)上半葉的上海時裝業(yè)在中國時裝發(fā)展史上占有重要?dú)v史地位。其特殊的時代背景和產(chǎn)業(yè)組織形式,使民國時期上海時裝業(yè)的產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展呈現(xiàn)出鮮明的產(chǎn)業(yè)特色。本論文以二十世紀(jì)上半葉上海最具影響力的時裝業(yè)的典型杰出代表——鴻翔時裝公司為重點(diǎn)研究對象,并由此推及上海時裝業(yè)的特征,以詳實(shí)的歷史材料、研究文獻(xiàn)、當(dāng)事人口述資料為依據(jù),結(jié)合設(shè)計學(xué)、服裝學(xué),以及產(chǎn)業(yè)經(jīng)濟(jì)學(xué)等多學(xué)科相關(guān)理論和方法進(jìn)行研究。本論文根據(jù)時間節(jié)點(diǎn),將鴻翔時裝公司所在的上海時裝業(yè)縱向劃分為民國時期及二十世紀(jì)五十年代兩大歷史時段。首先,在總體概述民國時期上海時代背景、文化環(huán)境的前提下,概述了鴻翔所在時裝業(yè)的基本情況。通過經(jīng)營規(guī)模、服務(wù)流程、營銷策略、管理模式、店鋪陳列、主要消費(fèi)群體等多角度的研究分析,總結(jié)出民國時期上海地區(qū)鴻翔時裝公司的發(fā)展?fàn)顩r。鴻翔時裝公司以其獨(dú)特的經(jīng)營規(guī)模、設(shè)計及技術(shù)水平展示了其所代表的時代特征,其創(chuàng)新的外部營銷手段、相對完善的內(nèi)部人才機(jī)制均領(lǐng)先于行業(yè)水平,主要消費(fèi)群體在商店經(jīng)營過程和發(fā)展中逐漸定位于中產(chǎn)階級女性。繼而,本文以上海鴻翔時裝公司為研究基礎(chǔ),通過對以鴻翔時裝公司為代表的上海時裝業(yè)的產(chǎn)業(yè)布局、產(chǎn)業(yè)管理、市場行為、政策導(dǎo)向、產(chǎn)業(yè)發(fā)展等五大方面來分析行業(yè)特征,并通過對同時期華資、外資同行業(yè)商店的橫向多方位比較,解析民國時期上海地區(qū)的時裝企業(yè)是如何通過產(chǎn)品的差異化、營銷手段的多元化來實(shí)現(xiàn)盈利,同時對時裝行業(yè)公會成熟發(fā)展而催生出的時裝商店的分級制度,和以鴻翔為代表的“八大名店”的競合關(guān)系進(jìn)行分析。最后,本文對二十世紀(jì)五十年代公私合營制度下,企業(yè)所有權(quán)及性質(zhì)的改變對于鴻翔時裝公司的品牌定位、營銷手段等方面產(chǎn)生的深遠(yuǎn)影響,及其所在時裝行業(yè)工商業(yè)的分、合變遷進(jìn)行梳理。通過對二十世紀(jì)上半葉以鴻翔時裝公司為代表的上海時裝業(yè)的深入研究,本文總結(jié)出特殊時代背景下上海時裝業(yè)的整體特征,以及不同時期本土服裝品牌發(fā)展的有效路徑及經(jīng)驗(yàn)。這不僅有利于我們探索本土老字號時裝企業(yè)在新時期的發(fā)展路徑,對于上海乃至中國時裝產(chǎn)業(yè)戰(zhàn)略布局具有深遠(yuǎn)意義。
[Abstract]:In 20th century, the fashion industry in Shanghai occupied an important historical position in the history of fashion development in China. This paper focuses on the typical outstanding representative of Shanghai's most influential fashion industry in 20th century-Hongxiang Fashion Company. And thus extrapolating the characteristics of the fashion industry in Shanghai, on the basis of detailed historical materials, research documents and oral materials of the parties concerned, combined with design and clothing studies, According to the time node, the Shanghai fashion industry, where Hongxiang Fashion Company is located, is divided into two historical periods: the period of the Republic of China and the period of 1950s. Based on a general overview of the background and cultural environment of the era of Shanghai during the Republic of China, this paper summarizes the basic situation of the fashion industry in which Hongxiang is located. Through business scale, service flow, marketing strategy, management model, store display, etc. This paper summarizes the development of Hongxiang Fashion Company in Shanghai during the period of the Republic of China. With its unique business scale, design and technical level, Hongxiang Fashion Company shows the characteristics of its era. Its innovative external marketing means, relatively perfect internal talent mechanism are ahead of the industry level, the main consumer groups are gradually positioned in the store business process and development of middle-class women. Based on the research of Shanghai Hongxiang Fashion Company, this paper analyzes the characteristics of Shanghai fashion industry through the following five aspects: industrial layout, industrial management, market behavior, policy orientation and industrial development. And through the horizontal comparison of the same period of Chinese capital, foreign capital and industry stores, this paper analyzes how fashion enterprises in Shanghai made profits through product differentiation and diversification of marketing methods during the period of the Republic of China. At the same time, the paper analyzes the classification system of fashion shops, which is produced by the mature development of fashion industry guild, and the competitive relationship between the "eight famous stores" represented by Hongxiang. Finally, this paper analyzes the system of public-private partnership in 1950s. The changes in the ownership and nature of enterprises have had a profound impact on the brand positioning and marketing methods of Hongxiang Fashion Company, as well as on the division of industry and commerce in the fashion industry. Through the in-depth study of Shanghai fashion industry represented by Hongxiang Fashion Company in the first half of 20th century, this paper summarizes the overall characteristics of Shanghai fashion industry under the background of special times. And the effective path and experience of local fashion brand development in different periods, which is not only helpful for us to explore the development path of local old fashion enterprises in the new period, but also has far-reaching significance for the strategic layout of fashion industry in Shanghai and even in China.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：東華大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2013
【分類號】：F426.86;K26

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