本文關(guān)鍵詞： 織錦旗袍 獨(dú)花圖案 主題性圖案 數(shù)碼仿真彩色絲織技術(shù)　出處：《浙江理工大學(xué)》2016年碩士論文　論文類型：學(xué)位論文

【摘要】：本設(shè)計(jì)實(shí)踐的題目為“現(xiàn)代織錦旗袍的獨(dú)花圖案設(shè)計(jì)”,在2013年國(guó)家文化創(chuàng)新工程項(xiàng)目(13086012-B)的支持下,以數(shù)碼仿真彩色絲織工藝為技術(shù)支撐,借助獨(dú)花圖案、主題性圖案的相關(guān)理論知識(shí),聚焦于解決傳統(tǒng)織錦旗袍僅能表現(xiàn)連續(xù)紋樣的缺陷,在織錦旗袍上實(shí)現(xiàn)自由靈活、不受外輪廓及骨骼限制的獨(dú)花圖案(單獨(dú)圖案),賦予織錦旗袍以更多的形式美感與文化內(nèi)涵。本實(shí)踐最終呈現(xiàn)出四個(gè)圖案主題下十二個(gè)織錦旗袍獨(dú)花圖案,以旗袍實(shí)體的形式展出,給織錦旗袍帶來(lái)全新的形式與內(nèi)容呈現(xiàn),增強(qiáng)織錦旗袍的競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力。需求調(diào)研報(bào)告,根據(jù)借助旗袍圖案增強(qiáng)織錦旗袍競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力的要求,對(duì)當(dāng)前市場(chǎng)中的旗袍圖案進(jìn)行調(diào)研,以求發(fā)現(xiàn)市場(chǎng)盲點(diǎn)。按照成衣旗袍、定制旗袍的不同分類,通過(guò)走訪實(shí)體店面、瀏覽線上網(wǎng)店、查閱書籍雜志等方式完成調(diào)研,并按照?qǐng)D案題材、圖案構(gòu)成形式、圖案表現(xiàn)手段三個(gè)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)對(duì)所搜集的旗袍圖案進(jìn)行分類。經(jīng)分析得出,市面上的織錦旗袍都只是連續(xù)圖案,且系列感不強(qiáng),因此在旗袍市場(chǎng)中缺乏競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力,并根據(jù)調(diào)研結(jié)果總結(jié)出市場(chǎng)對(duì)于旗袍圖案的新要求。需求調(diào)研的實(shí)施為本設(shè)計(jì)提供了創(chuàng)意切入點(diǎn),決定將現(xiàn)代織錦旗袍圖案創(chuàng)新的方向定位為獨(dú)花圖案的設(shè)計(jì)。文獻(xiàn)研究報(bào)告,根據(jù)本實(shí)踐利用現(xiàn)代設(shè)計(jì)理念與先進(jìn)技術(shù)創(chuàng)新織錦旗袍圖案的要求,對(duì)相關(guān)文獻(xiàn)理論與技術(shù)原理進(jìn)行研習(xí)。首先對(duì)旗袍歷史文化、旗袍圖案文化進(jìn)行了梳理,發(fā)現(xiàn)旗袍最基本的審美特征為含蓄美,任何圖案創(chuàng)新都要符合其基本特征;其次查閱文獻(xiàn),研究數(shù)碼仿真彩色絲織技術(shù),總結(jié)該技術(shù)如何為本設(shè)計(jì)提供技術(shù)依托;最后對(duì)獨(dú)花圖案進(jìn)行探討,發(fā)現(xiàn)其圖案優(yōu)勢(shì)為更加鮮明的敘事效果與裝飾效果,為突出其優(yōu)勢(shì),在設(shè)計(jì)時(shí)采取主題性圖案的設(shè)計(jì)方向,并依據(jù)其設(shè)計(jì)方向總結(jié)了可供指導(dǎo)的設(shè)計(jì)方法。通過(guò)文獻(xiàn)研究,為獨(dú)花圖案的設(shè)計(jì)提供理論指導(dǎo),確定本設(shè)計(jì)的設(shè)計(jì)方向與設(shè)計(jì)方法。設(shè)計(jì)過(guò)程實(shí)踐報(bào)告,根據(jù)本實(shí)踐欲呈現(xiàn)織錦旗袍主題性獨(dú)花圖案的目標(biāo),通過(guò)分析國(guó)際圖案主題流行趨勢(shì)與織錦旗袍圖案主題選擇的原則,策劃了四個(gè)主題,分別為如夢(mèng)幻境主題、花與密林主題、復(fù)古主義主題、繪畫復(fù)刻主題,這四個(gè)主題均滿足演繹潮流的前沿性與裝飾織錦旗袍的適用性。通過(guò)對(duì)各個(gè)主題的分析與素材搜集,由四個(gè)主題展開十二件設(shè)計(jì)作品,作品設(shè)計(jì)以闡明主題為主要目標(biāo),以前文總結(jié)的主題性獨(dú)花圖案的設(shè)計(jì)方法為指導(dǎo),將手繪圖案素材和攝影圖片素材導(dǎo)入圖像處理軟件中進(jìn)行完善與再設(shè)計(jì)。圖案設(shè)計(jì)完成后,依靠數(shù)碼仿真彩色絲織工藝造出面料,并縫制成旗袍,以旗袍實(shí)體的形式加以展現(xiàn)。未完成旗袍縫制的,以面料小樣的形式加以展出。本實(shí)踐以市場(chǎng)對(duì)于獨(dú)花圖案的織錦旗袍之需求為導(dǎo)向,以主題性獨(dú)花圖案的概念理論作為指導(dǎo),設(shè)計(jì)以手繪素材、圖像處理軟件繪制與修改、現(xiàn)代數(shù)碼織機(jī)織造面料,所得到的織錦旗袍圖案主題明確、構(gòu)成形式自由靈活,改變了傳統(tǒng)織錦旗袍圖案題材單調(diào)雷同、形式連續(xù)重復(fù)的面貌,賦予織錦旗袍以時(shí)尚韻味與市場(chǎng)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)力。
[Abstract]:This design practice entitled "modern brocade cheongsam single flower pattern design", in 2013 the national cultural innovation project (13086012-B) under the support of the digital simulation color silk technology for technical support, with the help of a single flower pattern, knowledge theme pattern, focusing on solving the traditional brocade cheongsam can only reflect the defects continuous pattern, to achieve the freedom and flexibility in the brocade cheongsam, the outer contour and skeleton limit single flower pattern (single pattern), given in the form of brocade cheongsam beauty and cultural connotation more. This practice eventually showed four patterns under the theme of twelve brocade cheongsam single flower pattern, in the form of solid cheongsam to display the form and content of brocade cheongsam brought new brocade cheongsam show, enhance competitiveness. According to the investigation report on demand, with the enhancement of competitiveness of brocade cheongsam cheongsam design requirements on the current In the market research in order to find the cheongsam pattern, the blind spot of the market. According to the different classification of custom clothing Qipao, cheongsam, through visits to physical stores, online browsing, reading books and magazines and other ways to complete the investigation, and in accordance with the design theme, the pattern forms of collected cheongsam pattern classification map means three case standard. Through the analysis, on the market are just cheongsam brocade pattern, and a series of sense is not strong, so the cheongsam market lack of competitiveness, and according to the research results summed up the new requirements for the market demand. The implementation of Qipao pattern research for this design provides a creative starting point, decided to position modern brocade cheongsam pattern the direction of innovation for the design of a single flower pattern. The literature research report, according to the requirements of the practical use of modern design concepts and advanced technological innovation pattern of brocade cheongsam, Xiang Guanwen Offer the principle theory and technology study. Firstly, the cheongsam history culture, cheongsam pattern culture carried out and found the basic aesthetic features of dress for the subtle beauty, any pattern innovation must conform to the basic characteristics of literature research; secondly, the digital simulation color silk weaving technique, summarizes how the technology based on the design; at the end of a single flower pattern to carry on the discussion, found that the pattern advantage for more distinctive narrative effect and decorative effect, to highlight the advantages, design direction to take the theme of pattern in the design, according to the design direction of design method is summarized for guidance. Through literature research, provide theoretical guidance for the design of a single flower the pattern, determine the design direction of the design and design method. The design process of practice report, according to the practice to show the theme of a single flower brocade cheongsam pattern, through the analysis of China As the design theme fashion trends and design theme selection principle of brocade cheongsam, planning four themes were a fantasy theme, flowers and the jungle theme, retro theme painting, engraved theme, the four themes are meet the applicability and interpretation of the forefront of decorative fabric banner. Through the analysis of material and robe the theme of the collection, twelve pieces of design works consists of four themes, the design works to illustrate the theme as the main target, design method of the theme of the above summary of single flower pattern as a guide, the hand-painted materials and photographic picture material into the image processing software to improve design and pattern design is completed. Rely on technology, digital simulation color silk made fabrics, and sewn into the dress, to show the cheongsam entity. Unfinished sewing cheongsam, to show in fabric form. This practice The demand in the market for the brocade cheongsam floral pattern oriented to concept theme Changnienia pattern as a guide to design hand-painted material, image processing software to draw and modify, modern digital weaving fabric, brocade cheongsam patterns are clear theme, form of freedom and flexibility, has changed the traditional pattern of brocade cheongsam the theme of identical drab, continuous repeated appearance, give brocade cheongsam fashion charm and market competitiveness.

【學(xué)位授予單位】：浙江理工大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2016
【分類號(hào)】：J523.5

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