【摘要】：黎錦植根于黎族土壤之中,在獨(dú)具民族特性的文化氛圍里成就了一部寫滿黎族歷史與發(fā)展的百科全書,它不僅記錄了黎族紡織業(yè)歷程,還涉及黎族人民日常生活以及精神生活的方方面面。在幾千年的發(fā)展歷程里,受到民族內(nèi)部分化合并、族外文化交融的影響,黎錦在不同時(shí)期展現(xiàn)出不同形態(tài)特征,經(jīng)歷了樹皮布到麻紡再到棉紡的三個(gè)階段。本文第二章梳理了這三個(gè)階段,并著重探討了以樹皮布為代表的無紡時(shí)代,從物質(zhì)、社會、精神三個(gè)方面分析樹皮布對后世黎錦的貢獻(xiàn)。第三章圍繞黎錦色彩的外在表現(xiàn)形式與其所表述的象征意義之間存在多種組合方式展開研究。將色彩作為一種象征符號,在符號學(xué)的理論基礎(chǔ)上結(jié)合黎族人民的思想觀念與文學(xué)素材兩方面來探討色彩符號的思想淵源,并選取民俗和宗教兩個(gè)角度解析黎錦色彩的內(nèi)涵表達(dá),舉出大量具體的實(shí)例來闡述不同色彩所對應(yīng)的象征意義,歸納出色彩符號的身份識別、審美及情感寄托功能。第四章歸納了黎錦織繡紋樣的三個(gè)特點(diǎn),即宗教性、地域差異性和構(gòu)圖手法多樣性。將紋樣分為四個(gè)類別,突出其包羅萬象的選材與形式、豐富的民俗內(nèi)涵和民族精神,展現(xiàn)出黎族人民將精神文化與審美藝術(shù)完美結(jié)合的高超技藝,表達(dá)了黎族人民追求幸福生活、歌頌美好品德、祈求獲得祖先庇佑的愿望。第五章從生態(tài)環(huán)境、社會生活、思想意識和民族融合的角度探討了黎錦織造工藝受到多元文化影響而形成的獨(dú)特民族文化。并從紡織工具、紡織原理、紡織流程、現(xiàn)代開發(fā)四個(gè)方面詳細(xì)的解析了黎錦織造工藝,將古老的紡織技術(shù)分解為可執(zhí)行的步驟,用圖文結(jié)合的方式記錄下來。本文選取樹皮布、黎錦色彩、黎錦紋樣和黎錦工藝這四個(gè)要素作為研究黎錦形態(tài)的突破口,旨在從多角度證實(shí)黎錦不僅僅是簡單的物質(zhì)形態(tài),它受到特定的社會因素影響,蘊(yùn)涵著深刻的精神內(nèi)涵,同時(shí)能夠承擔(dān)著最樸實(shí)的物質(zhì)功能。它唯有在黎族的土壤中才能生成發(fā)展,也只有植根于黎族文化才能在現(xiàn)代化的沖擊下永葆活力。
[Abstract]:Li Jin, rooted in the soil of Li nationality, has achieved an encyclopedia of Li nationality history and development in the unique cultural atmosphere, which not only records the history of Li textile industry, but also the history of Li nationality. It also involves all aspects of Li people's daily life and spiritual life. In the course of thousands of years' development, influenced by the internal differentiation and amalgamation of ethnic groups, Li Jin showed different morphological characteristics in different periods and experienced three stages from bark cloth to hemp spinning to cotton spinning. The second chapter combs these three stages, and emphatically discusses the non-woven era represented by bark cloth, and analyzes the contribution of bark cloth to Li Jin from three aspects: material, society and spirit. The third chapter focuses on the combination of the external manifestation of Li brocade color and its symbolic meaning. Based on the theory of semiotics, this paper discusses the ideological origin of color symbols by combining the ideas and literature materials of the Li people with the color as a symbolic symbol. And choose two angles of folklore and religion to analyze the connotation and expression of Li Jin color, cite a large number of concrete examples to illustrate the symbolic meaning corresponding to different colors, sum up the identification, aesthetic and emotional sustenance functions of color symbols. The fourth chapter summarizes the three characteristics of Li Jin embroidery patterns, namely, religious, regional differences and diversity of composition techniques. The pattern is divided into four categories, highlighting its all-encompassing selection of materials and forms, rich folklore connotation and national spirit, showing the Li people's superb skill of perfectly combining spiritual culture with aesthetic art. Li people expressed the pursuit of a happy life, eulogizing the good character, praying for the protection of their ancestors. The fifth chapter discusses the unique national culture formed by the multi-cultural influence of Li Jin weaving technology from the angle of ecological environment, social life, ideology and national integration. And from textile tools, textile principles, textile process, modern development of four aspects of the detailed analysis of the Lijin weaving process, the ancient textile technology decomposed into executable steps, and recorded by the combination of graphics and text. This paper selects the four elements of bark cloth, Li brocade color, Li brocade pattern and Li brocade craft as the breakthrough to study Li brocade form. The purpose of this paper is to prove from many angles that Li brocade is not only a simple material form, but also influenced by specific social factors. It contains profound spiritual connotation and can bear the most simple material function at the same time. Only in the soil of Li nationality can it develop, and only when it is rooted in the culture of Li nationality can it maintain its vitality under the impact of modernization.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：青島大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2015
【分類號】：J523.6;TS105

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本文編號：2182127