本文選題：民國 + 時尚設(shè)計師�。� 參考：《蘇州大學(xué)》2012年博士論文

【摘要】：本文第一部分對民國設(shè)計師所處時代進行研究。滿清王朝覆滅與中華民國誕生，是一個翻天覆地的巨大變化。知識分子從追逐科舉中第，轉(zhuǎn)而爭相出國深造，從而造就了一批制造時尚的新型知識分子階層；《南京條約》簽訂，開放包括上海在內(nèi)的五口通商，英、法、美、日租界為上海帶來了現(xiàn)代城市發(fā)展的元素，現(xiàn)代城市的產(chǎn)生同時帶來了現(xiàn)代市民階層；由于新文化運動和“五四”運動，受教育群體擴大，為時尚的現(xiàn)代文化制造了受眾，正是由于有這樣的時代背景，才會產(chǎn)生一批時尚設(shè)計師。萬籟鳴及他周圍的設(shè)計師大多數(shù)出生、成長于這個變化的時代，探究他們的時代背景，有助于追索他們設(shè)計風(fēng)格形成的原因。本章同時探討了中國現(xiàn)代設(shè)計萌芽于土山灣，傳教士在這個過程中也做出了重要貢獻(xiàn)。 本文第二部分對萬籟鳴早期在商務(wù)印書館的文化圈進行研究。商務(wù)印書館是中國最早的現(xiàn)代出版機構(gòu)，在當(dāng)時擁有中國最先進的印刷及彩色印刷設(shè)備，他的影戲部是中國最早的中資電影機構(gòu)，萬籟鳴在商務(wù)印書館影戲部，帶領(lǐng)他的兄弟拍出了中國最早的動畫廣告片。商務(wù)廣告部在當(dāng)時中國的設(shè)計界也是赫赫有名，中國早期月份牌廣告畫家，絕大多數(shù)都有在商務(wù)印書館的工作經(jīng)歷，也就是說，商務(wù)印書館為中國早期藝術(shù)設(shè)計領(lǐng)域培訓(xùn)了第一批人才。同時，商務(wù)印書館也是一個文學(xué)大師云集的地方，他們對萬籟鳴以及其他設(shè)計師都會產(chǎn)生深遠(yuǎn)影響。 本文第三部分對《良友》畫報的時尚設(shè)計圈進行研究�！读加选肥侵袊谝环荼犙劭词澜纭⒈犙劭粗袊臅r尚生活雜志。它在推動中國時代進步上，，有不可磨滅的貢獻(xiàn)。我們用發(fā)展的眼光看《良友》，它絕對不僅僅是一份休閑娛樂雜志。萬籟鳴在《良友》的成熟期入主美術(shù)編輯工作，將他的設(shè)計思想帶入《良友》，同時也深受圍繞在《良友》周圍的文化名人的影響。 本文第四部分以《大鬧天宮》為線索，對影視動漫圈的人和事進行研究。萬籟鳴三兄弟創(chuàng)造了中國第一部動畫片，直至中國動漫高峰《大鬧天宮》的拍攝，這中間的艱苦歷程中，一直閃現(xiàn)著萬氏兄弟、張氏兄弟、以及中國早期若干設(shè)計師的艱苦奮斗的身影。他們?yōu)橹袊耙晞勇龀隽素暙I(xiàn)。
[Abstract]:The first part of this article carries on the research to the era in which the designers of the Republic of China live. The fall of the Manchu Dynasty and the birth of the Republic of China was an earth-shaking change. Intellectuals went from chasing the imperial examinations to competing for further studies abroad, thus creating a new generation of intellectuals who made fashion. The "Nanjing Treaty" was signed to open up the five ports of trade, including Shanghai, to Britain, France and the United States. The Japanese concession has brought the elements of modern urban development to Shanghai, and the emergence of modern cities has also brought along the modern citizen class. As a result of the New Cultural Movement and the May 4th Movement, the educated population has expanded, creating an audience for the fashionable modern culture. It is precisely because of such a background, will produce a number of fashion designers. Wan Laiming and most of the designers around him were born and grew up in this changing era. Exploring the background of their times helps to trace the reasons for the formation of their design style. This chapter also discusses that modern Chinese design originated in Tushanwan, and missionaries made important contributions in this process. The second part of this paper studies Wan Laiming's early cultural circle in the Commercial Press. The Commercial Press was the earliest modern publishing institution in China. At that time, it had the most advanced printing and color printing equipment in China. Its film and play department was the earliest Chinese-funded film organization in China, and Wan Laiming was in the film and play department of the Commercial Press. Led his brother to make the first animated advertisement in China. The Commercial Advertising Department was also famous in the design world in China at that time. Most of the early Chinese monthly advertisement painters had working experience in the Commercial Press, that is to say, The business press trained the first talent in early Chinese art and design. At the same time, the business press is also a place of literary masters, they will have a profound impact on Wan Laiming and other designers. The third part of this paper studies the fashion design circle of "good Friends" pictorial. "good Friends" is the first Chinese magazine to open eyes to see the world and Chinese fashion life. It has made indelible contributions to promoting the progress of the Chinese times. We look at Friends from a developmental perspective. It's definitely not just a magazine for leisure and entertainment. Wan Laiming took over the art editing work in the mature period of "good friend", brought his design thought into "good friend", and was also deeply influenced by the cultural celebrities around "good friend". In the fourth part of this paper, the author studies the people and events of film and TV animation circle. The three brothers of Wan Laiming created the first animated film in China, until the shooting of the Chinese animation peak, "the Heaven Palace," during which the Wanshi brothers and the Zhang brothers flashed through the hard course. And a number of early Chinese designers hard struggle figure. They have made contributions to Chinese film and television animation.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：蘇州大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級別】：博士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2012
【分類號】：J509.2

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