【摘要】：隨著環(huán)境的加劇惡化,植物染料逐漸回歸大眾的視野。茜草早在秦漢時期就做為最主要的紅色植物染料,其在古代文獻中的記載,證明了茜草染色在中國植物染色制衣中的重要地位。茜草染色的綠色環(huán)保,色澤自然使其具有較高的研究發(fā)展價值。本文對茜草及其染色發(fā)展演變進行了概述,將茜草色相與中國傳統(tǒng)色彩相對應,并分析古人關于茜草所染紅色的三種基本色彩搭配方法。茜草為多色相媒染染料,所染色彩的自然和諧是化學染料所不能比擬的。本文進行了相同條件下中國茜和印度茜用不同染色方法、不同媒染劑、不同時間在棉、麻、羊毛、天蠶緞、真絲和絲棉六種面料上所染色相的對比實驗。實驗可知兩種茜草都對天蠶緞親和度較高,最易上色。印度茜可染更為鮮艷的紅色調,兩種茜草用不同染色方法,使用不同媒染劑,煮染不同時間得到色相均有所差別。茜草色相的豐富變化和在不同面料上的染色特性,使其可以更具創(chuàng)新的應用在女裝設計中,通過畢業(yè)設計的實踐,對茜草染色有了進一步的了解,發(fā)現茜草染色在女裝設計中的創(chuàng)新應用有著更為廣闊的探索空間。
[Abstract]:With the aggravation and deterioration of the environment, plant dyes gradually return to the public vision. Rubiao was the most important red plant dye as early as Qin and Han dynasties. Its records in ancient literature proved the important position of Xicao dyeing in Chinese plant dyeing clothing. The green and environmental protection of cedar dyeing naturally makes it have high research and development value. In this paper, the development and evolution of Rubiao and its dyeing were summarized, the color of Rubiao was corresponding to the traditional Chinese color, and the three basic color collocation methods of Rubiao dyed red in the ancients were analyzed. Xicao is a polychromatic mordant dye, and the natural harmony of the dyed color is incomparable to the chemical dye. In this paper, the comparative experiments on cotton, hemp, wool, silk satin, silk and silk cotton fabrics by different dyeing methods, different mordants and different time were carried out. The results showed that the two kinds of Rubiao had higher compatibility with silk and were the most easily colored to Bombyx mori. Hindusia can dye more bright red hue. The two kinds of Rubiao can be dyed with different mordants, and the color phase can be obtained by cooking and dyeing at different time. With the rich change of Rubiao color and its dyeing characteristics in different fabrics, it can be applied more innovatively in women's clothing design. Through the practice of graduation design, there is a further understanding of the dyeing of Xiicao, and it is found that the innovative application of Xicao dyeing in women's clothing design has a broader exploration space.
【學位授予單位】：北京服裝學院
【學位級別】：碩士
【學位授予年份】：2017
【分類號】：TS941.2

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