【摘要】：2008年“彝族刺繡”被列入了第二批國(guó)家級(jí)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)名錄,非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)在現(xiàn)今社會(huì)越來越受到世界各國(guó)人民的重視,花腰彝服飾藝術(shù)有著迷人的魅力和不同于當(dāng)代流行服飾中的審美意境。隨著我國(guó)社會(huì)經(jīng)濟(jì)的不斷發(fā)展,現(xiàn)代人們對(duì)服裝的審美要求逐漸從潮流性轉(zhuǎn)移到文化性上,人們?cè)谶x購(gòu)服裝時(shí)不僅是為了滿足視覺層面上的享受,而是更加注重服裝設(shè)計(jì)所呈現(xiàn)的精神文化內(nèi)涵。花腰彝族服飾上的刺繡紋樣具有獨(dú)特的審美價(jià)值和豐富的民族文化內(nèi)涵,筆者多次深入花腰彝族聚居地進(jìn)行考察調(diào)研,結(jié)合自己的專業(yè)知識(shí),通過本課題的研究將花腰彝族刺繡進(jìn)行創(chuàng)新設(shè)計(jì)并應(yīng)用于現(xiàn)代服裝設(shè)計(jì)中,意在提高現(xiàn)代人對(duì)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)傳統(tǒng)文化的關(guān)注,研究對(duì)中國(guó)民間民族刺繡技藝在服裝設(shè)計(jì)中應(yīng)用提供有益的參考價(jià)值和設(shè)計(jì)觀念。論文共分為六章內(nèi)容。第一部分:緒論,闡明選題的起源,分析研究對(duì)象的背景和國(guó)內(nèi)外研究現(xiàn)狀,明確研究的意義和目的。針對(duì)花腰彝族刺繡相關(guān)內(nèi)容進(jìn)行框架構(gòu)建,確立研究方法和步驟,最后闡明研究的創(chuàng)新點(diǎn)和研究?jī)r(jià)值。第二部分:花腰彝族概述,對(duì)花腰彝族地理概況和人文風(fēng)俗進(jìn)行介紹。第三部分:對(duì)花腰彝族服飾刺繡元素的解析,花腰彝族刺繡三大構(gòu)成要素包括色彩、紋樣和針法,對(duì)花腰彝族刺繡的獨(dú)特風(fēng)格及其紋樣的文化內(nèi)涵進(jìn)行分析。第四部分:通過案列對(duì)比國(guó)內(nèi)外刺繡在女裝設(shè)計(jì)中的運(yùn)用情況,分析歸納刺繡在現(xiàn)代女裝設(shè)計(jì)中的形式美法則。第五部分:課題研究的實(shí)踐部分,筆者在分析與理解的基礎(chǔ)上,對(duì)花腰彝族刺繡元素解析后進(jìn)行重組創(chuàng)新設(shè)計(jì),將創(chuàng)新刺繡紋樣設(shè)計(jì)運(yùn)用到筆者的畢業(yè)設(shè)計(jì)系列作品中,實(shí)現(xiàn)民族刺繡工藝與現(xiàn)代服裝設(shè)計(jì)完美結(jié)合的可能性。第六部分:對(duì)花腰彝族刺繡研究課題的總結(jié)與展望。本研究課題的初級(jí)目標(biāo)是為了探索非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)刺繡元素在現(xiàn)代女裝設(shè)計(jì)中的設(shè)計(jì)方法和應(yīng)用規(guī)律,最終目標(biāo)則是研究非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)刺繡項(xiàng)目傳承的多樣性和可能性,也為我國(guó)紡織類非遺產(chǎn)品的設(shè)計(jì)開發(fā)積累實(shí)踐經(jīng)驗(yàn),有利于更好的保護(hù)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)項(xiàng)目。
[Abstract]:In 2008, "Yi embroidery" was listed in the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage list, and the intangible cultural heritage has been paid more and more attention by people all over the world. Huayao Yi dress art has charming charm and is different from the aesthetic conception in contemporary fashion. With the development of our country's social economy, modern people's aesthetic demand for clothing has gradually shifted from the trend to the cultural, people not only to meet the visual level of enjoyment when choosing clothing. But pay more attention to the spiritual and cultural connotation of clothing design. The embroidery patterns of Huayao Yi nationality have unique aesthetic value and rich national cultural connotation. Through the research of this subject, the embroidery of Yi nationality is innovatively designed and applied to modern clothing design, which is intended to raise the attention of modern people to the traditional culture of intangible cultural heritage. The research provides useful reference value and design idea for the application of Chinese folk embroidery technique in clothing design. The thesis is divided into six chapters. The first part is introduction, which clarifies the origin of the topic, analyzes the background of the research object and the current research situation at home and abroad, and clarifies the significance and purpose of the research. This paper constructs the framework of the embroidery content of Huayao Yi nationality, establishes the research methods and steps, and finally clarifies the innovative points and research value of the research. The second part: an overview of Huayao Yi nationality, introducing the geography and cultural customs of Huayao Yi nationality. The third part: the analysis of the embroidery elements of Huayao Yi nationality clothing. The three major elements of Huayao Yi nationality embroidery include color, pattern and needling, and the unique style and cultural connotation of Huayao Yi embroidery are analyzed. The fourth part: through the comparison of domestic and foreign embroidery in women's clothing design application, analysis and induction of embroidery in modern women's clothing design in the form of beauty rule. The fifth part: the practice part of the subject research, on the basis of the analysis and understanding, the author carries on the reorganization innovation design to the flower waist Yi nationality embroidery element analysis, and applies the innovative embroidery pattern design to the author's graduation design series works. The possibility of perfect combination of national embroidery technology and modern clothing design is realized. The sixth part: the summary and prospect of embroidery research of Huayao Yi nationality. The primary goal of this research is to explore the design method and application law of non-material cultural heritage embroidery elements in modern women's clothing design, and the ultimate goal is to study the diversity and possibility of inheritance of intangible cultural heritage embroidery project. It also accumulates practical experience for the design and development of textile non-legacy products in China, which is conducive to better protection of intangible cultural heritage projects.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：武漢紡織大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2017
【分類號(hào)】：J523.6;TS941.717

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