本文選題：作訓(xùn)服 + 結(jié)構(gòu)優(yōu)化設(shè)計(jì)��； 參考：《北京服裝學(xué)院》2017年碩士論文

【摘要】：作訓(xùn)服是軍人在訓(xùn)練和作戰(zhàn)時(shí)穿著的制式服裝。夏作訓(xùn)服是在夏天或炎熱環(huán)境下訓(xùn)練和作戰(zhàn)時(shí)穿著的制式服裝,因此,其對熱濕舒適性要求非常高。我軍曾多次進(jìn)行作訓(xùn)服改革,其中07版夏作訓(xùn)服是面料和結(jié)構(gòu)變化較大的一次改革。盡管如此,其在運(yùn)動(dòng)及熱濕舒適性方面仍存在問題。因此,本課題以中國人民解放軍07版夏作訓(xùn)服上衣為研究對象,通過優(yōu)選綜合性能優(yōu)良的機(jī)織面料和針織面料,運(yùn)用拼接設(shè)計(jì)理念對夏作訓(xùn)服進(jìn)行結(jié)構(gòu)優(yōu)化設(shè)計(jì),并通過人體穿著實(shí)驗(yàn)分析結(jié)構(gòu)優(yōu)化設(shè)計(jì)對不同款式作訓(xùn)服舒適性的改善效果。本文旨在從面料服用性能提升和服裝結(jié)構(gòu)優(yōu)化角度為改善軍用夏作訓(xùn)服的服用舒適性提供一定的理論依據(jù)和實(shí)際指導(dǎo)。本文分別對5種機(jī)織面料和4種針織面料的物理性能、熱濕性能進(jìn)行測試,測試項(xiàng)目有:彎曲性;拉伸性;撕破性;頂破性;透氣性;透濕性;毛細(xì)管效應(yīng)。通過層次分析法將所測得的數(shù)據(jù)進(jìn)行綜合分析,優(yōu)選綜合性能較好的機(jī)織和針織面料,確定用于成衣制作面料。本文通過增加服裝的開口部位以及設(shè)計(jì)拼接針織面料改善服用舒適性為途徑,在07版夏作訓(xùn)服結(jié)構(gòu)的基礎(chǔ)上,進(jìn)行了在背部設(shè)計(jì)“通風(fēng)背部育克”、腋下拼接針織面料以及前胸口袋角度進(jìn)行調(diào)整的優(yōu)化設(shè)計(jì),并制作了5款不同的作訓(xùn)服。本文通過人體穿著實(shí)驗(yàn)對作訓(xùn)服舒適性進(jìn)行綜合評價(jià)。實(shí)驗(yàn)過程中分別針對受試者的生理指標(biāo)和主觀感覺進(jìn)行測試,生理學(xué)實(shí)驗(yàn)測試運(yùn)動(dòng)過程中皮膚溫度和衣內(nèi)溫濕度,主觀感覺評價(jià)運(yùn)動(dòng)過程中服裝濕感、熱感、悶感和粘感。實(shí)驗(yàn)結(jié)果表明,作訓(xùn)服款式5(“通風(fēng)背部育克”、“針織袖襠”以及“前胸口袋角度調(diào)整”)結(jié)構(gòu)優(yōu)化設(shè)計(jì)對夏作訓(xùn)服舒適性改善效果最為明顯。
[Abstract]:A training suit is a standard dress worn by soldiers in training and combat. Summer training clothing is a standard dress for training and combat in summer or hot environment. Therefore, it requires very high thermal and wet comfort. Our army has carried on the training suit reform many times, of which the 07 edition summer training suit is a great change in fabric and structure. Nevertheless, there are still problems in motion and thermal and moisture comfort. Therefore, this subject takes the 07 edition of the Chinese people's Liberation Army as the research object, through the excellent comprehensive performance of woven fabrics and knitted fabrics, using the splicing design concept to optimize the structure design of summer training clothing. And through the human body wear experiment analysis the structure optimization design to the different style as the training clothing comfort improvement effect. The purpose of this paper is to provide some theoretical basis and practical guidance for improving the clothing comfort of military summer training clothes from the point of view of fabric performance improvement and clothing structure optimization. The physical properties, thermal and moisture properties of five woven fabrics and four knitted fabrics were tested in this paper. The test items were as follows: bending; tensile; tearing; breaking; gas permeability; moisture permeability; capillary effect. Through the comprehensive analysis of the measured data by analytic hierarchy process (AHP), the woven and knitted fabrics with better comprehensive properties are selected and used in the manufacture of ready-made fabrics. In this paper, by increasing the open part of clothing and designing knitted fabric to improve the comfort of clothing, on the basis of the 07 edition of summer training clothing structure, the design of "ventilation back Yuke" in the back is carried out. The optimal design of the underarm stitched knitted fabric and the angle of the front chest pocket is optimized, and 5 different kinds of training clothes are made. In this paper, a comprehensive evaluation of the comfort of training clothes is carried out through human body wear experiments. In the course of the experiment, the physiological indexes and subjective feelings of the subjects were tested, the skin temperature and the temperature and humidity inside the clothing during exercise were tested, and the wet, thermal, stuffy and sticky feelings of clothing were evaluated during the exercise. The experimental results show that the optimum design of 5 styles ("ventilation back Yuke", "knit sleeve crotch" and "front chest pocket angle adjustment") has the most obvious effect on improving the comfort of summer training clothing.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：北京服裝學(xué)院
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2017
【分類號】：TS101.923.6;TS941.4

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