本文選題：茶油 + 油膩性　； 參考：《合肥工業(yè)大學(xué)》2017年碩士論文

【摘要】：在日本,精制茶油已被應(yīng)用于多種天然的高級美容護(hù)膚品。但我國的茶油主要作為食用油使用,在化妝品方面的應(yīng)用很少。限制茶油在化妝品中應(yīng)用的因素之一就是茶油在涂抹后會(huì)在皮膚表面殘留一部分油膩物質(zhì),容易吸收灰塵,產(chǎn)生不舒適的膚感。本文主要目的就是確定茶油中產(chǎn)生油膩感的成分,并采取有效的措施降低或去除其中的油膩物質(zhì)。對處理后茶油的理化性質(zhì)和安全性進(jìn)行評價(jià),并與未處理茶油及市售的化妝品基礎(chǔ)油進(jìn)行比較,分析其在化妝品中的適應(yīng)性。主要研究結(jié)果如下:1)采用Franz擴(kuò)散池法探究茶油的滲透性,并與橄欖油和甜杏仁油進(jìn)行比較,得到油脂的滲透速率與其飽和脂肪酸含量呈反比。同時(shí)采用GC對茶油滲透前后的脂肪酸組成進(jìn)行了分析,滲透8h后接收池中飽和脂肪酸含量降低了50%,不飽和脂肪酸含量升高,供給池中則與接收池相反。說明茶油中難以滲透的物質(zhì)為飽和脂肪酸。進(jìn)一步對含不同濃度飽和脂肪酸的茶油油膩性進(jìn)行感官評分,確定了飽和脂肪酸產(chǎn)生油膩感的濃度閾值為6%。2)茶油中飽和脂肪酸的去除采用脂肪酶催化酯化與尿素包合相結(jié)合的方法。以合成50%異丙酯所需時(shí)間為考察指標(biāo),脂肪酶催化酯化的最佳工藝條件為:超聲功率200 W、超聲預(yù)處理時(shí)間5 min、酶添加量220 U/g、異丙醇與茶油比6:1、反應(yīng)溫度60℃,在此條件下反應(yīng)所需時(shí)間3h。同時(shí)考察了脂肪酶Novozym 435的使用穩(wěn)定性,其在重復(fù)使用8次后仍具有較高的活力,說明該脂肪酶穩(wěn)定性良好。尿素包合去除飽和脂肪酸的最佳工藝條件為:尿脂比3:1、包合溫度-20℃、包合時(shí)間12 h。在此條件下不飽和脂肪酸純度在94.8%以上,得率在78.3%以上,飽和脂肪酸的去除率在50%以上。3)對處理后茶油的理化性質(zhì)和安全性進(jìn)行了評估。結(jié)果表明處理后茶油的酸值和黏度均有較顯著的降低,酸值從1.09 mg KOH/g降到0.18 mg KOH/g,黏度則從62.44 mpa·s降到14.57 mpa·s。此外,處理后茶油在過氧化值、皂化值和折光率上均略優(yōu)于未處理茶油,且各指標(biāo)與市售的甜杏仁油相近。急性皮膚刺激性試驗(yàn)的結(jié)果表明,處理后茶油的皮膚刺激反應(yīng)評分低于0.49,對皮膚沒有刺激性。RBC溶血試驗(yàn)的結(jié)果表明產(chǎn)品的溶血率為7.47%,低于未處理茶油的9.62%,并且不會(huì)對皮膚產(chǎn)生刺激性,在化妝品中的應(yīng)用具有較高的安全性。
[Abstract]:In Japan, refined tea oil has been used in a variety of natural beauty and skin care products.However, tea oil is mainly used as edible oil in our country, and is seldom used in cosmetics.One of the factors limiting the application of tea oil in cosmetics is that tea oil will remain some greasy substances on the skin surface after smearing, which can easily absorb dust and produce uncomfortable skin feeling.The main purpose of this paper is to determine the greasy components in tea oil and to take effective measures to reduce or remove greasy substances.The physical and chemical properties and safety of the treated tea oil were evaluated and compared with the untreated tea oil and the cosmetic base oil sold in the market. The adaptability of the treated tea oil in cosmetics was analyzed.The main results are as follows: (1) the permeability of tea oil was studied by Franz diffusion pool method, and compared with olive oil and sweet almond oil, the osmotic rate of oil was inversely proportional to the content of saturated fatty acid.At the same time, the fatty acid composition of tea oil before and after permeation was analyzed by GC. The saturated fatty acid content in the receiving pond decreased by 50% and the unsaturated fatty acid content increased after 8 h infiltration, but the supply pool was opposite to the receiving pool.It shows that the difficult substance in tea oil is saturated fatty acid.The sensory score of the greasy tea oil with different concentrations of saturated fatty acids was further evaluated.The removal of saturated fatty acids from tea oil was determined by lipase-catalyzed esterification and urea inclusion.The optimum conditions for lipase esterification were as follows: ultrasonic power 200 W, ultrasonic pretreatment time 5 min, enzyme dosage 220 U / g, ratio of isopropanol to tea oil 6: 1, reaction temperature 60 鈩，

本文編號：1743758