發(fā)布時(shí)間：2018-03-13 02:04

  本文選題：套頭衫　切入點(diǎn)：褲裝　出處：《東華大學(xué)》2010年博士論文　論文類型：學(xué)位論文

【摘要】：漢時(shí)絲綢之路“鑿空”之后,沿途商貿(mào)往來繁忙。雖說裝載的貨物中有貴重的絲綢西去,然而有往必有來,那自西向東的來者會(huì)不會(huì)也帶來了精美的織物,是各類}抑或是氍毹嗎?牽著駱駝和馬匹的客商們穿著又是怎樣?給予邊疆少數(shù)民族以其獨(dú)特的生存方式的人們留下了豐富的物質(zhì)和精神財(cái)富,是中華民族歷史文化形成中不可或缺的重要組成部分。像關(guān)注漢族本土服飾文化一樣關(guān)注少數(shù)民族的服飾文化與歷史正是本文的選題初衷。新疆洛浦山普拉墓地出土的各類毛織服飾和織物給予研究者一個(gè)深入討論的空間。 絲綢之路沿途出土的華麗精美又帶有異域風(fēng)格毛織服飾和織物被奉為珍品,也需要人們?nèi)ピ忈屗鼈冊(cè)瓉淼囊饬x。誠(chéng)然古代絲路上發(fā)生過的不僅僅是商貿(mào),還有戰(zhàn)爭(zhēng)、遷徙和融合。這些歷史上不曾被人們重視的西域小國(guó)的興衰更替、民族服飾文化之間的潛移默化,因生疏而被漠化或誤解。史籍文獻(xiàn)的字里行間常以“異裝奇服”論之,進(jìn)而以為其代表著荒蠻文化而處處提防。事實(shí)上,存在于這些服飾和織物之中的意義,來自于這些身處氣候條件惡劣、自然資源不穩(wěn)定的民族從不斷抵抗和適應(yīng)變化復(fù)雜的自然環(huán)境與生物而積累出人對(duì)自然的頗為卓越的利用和掌控能力。 本文以出土毛織物種類豐富,刊布情況較早,資料較為全面的西域史上于闐故地——新疆洛浦山普拉墓地出土的毛織服飾和織物為核心研究數(shù)據(jù),對(duì)漢晉時(shí)期于闐古國(guó)典型毛織服飾與織物類型進(jìn)行具體分析,進(jìn)而探索絲綢之路天山南路漢晉時(shí)期古代于闐國(guó)以及周邊地區(qū)服飾的款式功能、藝術(shù)設(shè)計(jì)和織物特點(diǎn),研究該地域制衣、紡織技術(shù)的體系類別,探討毛織服飾款式設(shè)計(jì)與織造編織技術(shù)的關(guān)系。 本文涉及到服飾主要為套頭衫、燈籠褲、橫絳裙、腰帶；涉及到的織物有緙毛、毛褐、毛“羅”、毛絳、毛繡和毛毯；涉及到的織物顯花技術(shù)有緙織、絞孔、斜編、絞編、經(jīng)顯花、緯顯花、刺繡等,其中包含通經(jīng)多種緯向顯花技術(shù)共存的特有織法；涉及到的織物基礎(chǔ)組織有平紋和斜紋；涉及到的織造技術(shù)有寬幅立機(jī)系統(tǒng)、窄幅地機(jī)系統(tǒng)和卡片絞編機(jī)系統(tǒng),其中含緙織和絞孔的局部工藝系統(tǒng)。與上述內(nèi)容相關(guān)并進(jìn)行關(guān)聯(lián)性比較研究的織物主要出土于克里雅河圓沙古城遺址、扎滾魯克古墓群、尼雅墓葬和營(yíng)盤墓葬。本文重點(diǎn)討論山普拉墓地出土的套頭衫袍及腰帶配飾、緙織橫絳裙和褲裝的款型搭配、面料種類以及制衣和紡織工藝,同時(shí)兼顧紋樣與風(fēng)格和史籍記載的研究,其中對(duì)緙毛織物的不同類型作了溯源研究。 最后得出結(jié)論：首先,于闐古國(guó)以及周邊地區(qū)的人們的服飾款式與面料設(shè)計(jì)受生存環(huán)境因素制約。毛織服飾款式設(shè)計(jì)與功能性密切相關(guān),即必須以抵抗惡劣環(huán)境為設(shè)計(jì)前提,然后才是地域性和民族性不同所具有不同的裝飾手法和細(xì)節(jié)部位的相異；其次,毛織服飾款式與面料直接相關(guān),即根據(jù)款式用料(面料和輔料)所在部位和功用,織成不同的紗線細(xì)度、面料門幅、匹長(zhǎng)、組織和紋樣的毛料。即毛織物用途與種類之間具有對(duì)應(yīng)匹配的關(guān)系。簡(jiǎn)單地說就是每一種毛料種類都有對(duì)應(yīng)的用途。這個(gè)結(jié)論可以用來判斷不明用途出土毛織物殘片,根據(jù)織物種類來推測(cè)出比較可信的用途。再者,與絲織物相比較,毛類作為紡織材料具有自身的纖維特性,因此毛紡織技術(shù)的發(fā)展過程無法受絲織物織造技術(shù)的直接影響。毛纖維作為短纖維,因種類不同,長(zhǎng)度和細(xì)度會(huì)有差異,所以在紡染織造過程中不同毛種有著自身的技術(shù)特點(diǎn),以至于在織機(jī)的發(fā)展歷程中具有三類機(jī)型共存于不同地區(qū)的情況。最后,無論毛纖維還是紡織技術(shù),或者是服飾款式類別和紋飾圖案,山普拉墓地出土的毛織物具有以草原文化和中西亞文化交匯的特點(diǎn),間或受到中原絲織藝術(shù)和技術(shù)淺層的、表面模仿的或者是附加裝飾技法方面的影響。 本課題告一段落時(shí),在本論文成文的體系之外,仍然有著可供討論的空間值得深入。然而,仍然有一些不解與不確定來自于考古發(fā)現(xiàn)具有偶然性和文物資料獲取的可能性。雖然有著種種困難,但本文最終首次完成對(duì)山普拉墓地出土的毛織服飾和織物進(jìn)行系統(tǒng)的研究,揭示西域于闐古國(guó)居民主要服飾和織物的各種特征以及歷史、藝術(shù)和文化中若干問題的詮釋。對(duì)于出土毛織服飾和織物的研究方法提出了創(chuàng)新性的見解。經(jīng)過本文的系統(tǒng)研究,西域于闐以及周邊相關(guān)地區(qū)豐富多彩織物系統(tǒng)地被詮釋出來,還原當(dāng)?shù)厝藗儾⒉淮炙椎拖碌姆椛钋榫?填補(bǔ)了西域服飾紡織史中的一個(gè)空白。
[Abstract]:After the Han Dynasty silk road "chisel", along the way business busy. Although the precious cargo of silk to the west, but will have to go to the west to East, who will also bring exquisite fabrics, all kinds of } or woollen blanket? Camel and horse merchants dressed in what? Give minority people its unique way of life has left a rich material and spiritual wealth, is the history of the Chinese nation culture to form an integral part of the local Han Chinese clothing culture. As the same attention to minority costume culture and history is the original intention of this article to Xinjiang. Luopu sampula cemetery unearthed wool clothing and fabric to give researchers a thorough discussion of the space.
Along the Silk Road unearthed elegant with exotic style woolen clothing and fabric are regarded as treasures, also need people to interpret their original meaning. It occurred on the ancient Silk Road is not only the trade, and the war, migration and integration. These have not been the history of the rise and fall of people pay attention to the small country in the western regions change between the costume culture of the subtle, desertification or misunderstanding due to being strange. The historical literature between the lines often "transvestite costumes" theory, and think it represents the savage culture everywhere. In fact, in the clothing and fabric of the significance, from the in harsh climatic conditions, natural resources are not stable people from the natural environment and biological resistance and constantly adapt to changes in the complex and the accumulation of natural rather excellent use and control ability.
Based on the unearthed wool fabric variety, publication earlier and more comprehensive data on the history of Western Xinjiang Luopu Yutian haunt sampula cemetery unearthed wool clothing and fabric as the core of data of Han and Jin Dynasties ancient Yutian typical woolen clothing and fabric types for specific analysis, and then explore the the function of ancient styles in clothing Tian and the surrounding area in South Silk Road in the Han and Jin Dynasties, art design and fabric characteristics, study the regional system of garment, textile technology category, the relationship between wool clothing style design and weaving weaving technology.
This paper relates to the clothing mainly for pullovers, pants, skirt belt; transverse sash, relates to the fabric wool tapestry, brown hair, hair, hair ribbon, "Luo" hair embroidery fabric blanket; flowering technique involved with weaving embroidering, reaming, oblique, pigtail, after flowering. Weft figures embroidery, which contains a variety of weft weave through the unique flowering technology coexist; fabric based organizations involved with plain and twill; weaving technology involves the wide vertical machine system, narrow machine system and card cutter knitting machine system, the local process system including weaving embroidering and reaming. With the content and relevance of the comparative study of the fabric mainly unearthed in Keriya yuansha ruins ruins, zhagunluke ancient tombs, tombs, tombs and camp. This paper focuses on the discussion of sampula cemetery unearthed the pullover robe and belt accessories, weaving embroidering cross skirts and trousers style a sash With the type of fabric and garment and textile technology, both the research pattern and style and historical records, including different types of wool tapestry fabric made of traceability.
Conclusion: first, the clothing styles and fabric design in ancient Khotan people and the surrounding area is restricted by environment factors. The design and function of woolen clothing styles are closely related, must be taken to resist the bad environment for the design of the premise, then it is different in different regions and the nationality of different decorative techniques and the details of the site; secondly, woolen clothing styles and fabrics are directly related, according to the style of materials (fabric and accessories) the position and function of different woven yarn fineness, fabric width, length, and patterns of wool. The wool fabric has relation matching between use and types. Simply say that each species has a corresponding use of wool. This conclusion can be used to determine the unknown use of the unearthed wool fabric pieces according to the type of fabric to infer reliable use. Then, with silk The fabric is wool fiber as textile material has the characteristics of itself, therefore directly influence the development process of wool textile technology not by silk fabric technology. Wool fibers as short fibers, due to different types, length and fineness are different, so in the textile dyeing process for wool weaving technology has a different the characteristics of its own, that has three kinds of models coexist in different areas in the development process of the loom. Finally, both wool fiber or textile technology, or style of clothing categories and patterns, sampula cemetery unearthed wool fabric is characterized by intersection of grassland culture and the west culture, or by shallow the Central Plains silk art and technology, surface imitation or influence additional decoration technique aspects.
This topic comes to an end, in addition to the existing system, there is still room for discussion can be worth further. However, there are still some uncertainty from archaeological discovery has the possibility of chance and cultural relics get puzzled. Although there are many difficulties, but the final completion of the first unearthed on the hill Pula cemetery apparel wool textile and fabric were studied, revealing the western ancient Yutian residents mainly clothing and various features of fabric and history, some problems in the arts and culture interpretation. Research methods for wool fabrics and clothing from the innovative ideas have been put forward. Through this systematic research the western regions, Yutian and surrounding area related to rich and colorful fabric systematically interpreted, reducing local people are not low clothing life, fill a blank in the history of western apparel textile.

【學(xué)位授予單位】：東華大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：博士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2010
【分類號(hào)】：K876

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