本文選題：儒服　切入點(diǎn)：儒生　出處：《山東師范大學(xué)》2009年碩士論文

【摘要】： 中國古代服飾研究,是古代史研究中的一個(gè)重要組成部分。服飾不僅是物質(zhì)文化的體現(xiàn),更是歷史、政治、經(jīng)濟(jì)、軍事、文化諸因素融合的產(chǎn)物,通過服飾可以透視出各朝代不同的社會(huì)背景和社會(huì)狀況,正如郭沫若先生所言:對古代服飾的研究可以考見民族文化發(fā)展的軌跡。 自20世紀(jì)80年代沈從文先生的《中國古代服飾研究》一書問世以來,服飾研究得到學(xué)術(shù)界的廣泛關(guān)注,成果不斷涌現(xiàn)。但有關(guān)古代服飾的研究多注重喪葬服飾、婦女服飾、少數(shù)民族服飾、服飾風(fēng)俗、綜合研究等方面,而對儒生服飾卻少有系統(tǒng)的深入研究。服飾是身份地位、行業(yè)角色、政治立場、思想傾向、個(gè)體品格的外在標(biāo)志。儒服不僅僅能夠反映出儒生的政治立場、思想傾向和個(gè)體品格,而且還能從一個(gè)側(cè)面反映出一定時(shí)期內(nèi)的社會(huì)風(fēng)俗與統(tǒng)治者的服飾政策,以及儒家、儒生在這一時(shí)期的歷史地位和政治地位。對中國古代儒服進(jìn)行全面系統(tǒng)的歷史考察,弄清儒服在每一個(gè)歷史發(fā)展階段上的具體款式,儒服流行的階層、類別,儒服背后所隱含的政治意蘊(yùn)和文化意蘊(yùn),儒服在當(dāng)時(shí)所有服飾中的地位,對理解和把握中國傳統(tǒng)服飾文化與中國傳統(tǒng)服飾審美觀念,以及從歷史中尋找現(xiàn)代服飾改革的突破口,都有非常重要的學(xué)術(shù)價(jià)值和現(xiàn)實(shí)意義。 本文力求對中國古代儒服進(jìn)行全方位的立體式考察,直觀地展現(xiàn)出儒服在每個(gè)歷史階段的具體樣式,把握整個(gè)古代儒服的發(fā)展脈絡(luò)及遞嬗規(guī)律。本文主要從以下五個(gè)方面展開論述: 第一部分,主要從先秦時(shí)期、兩漢時(shí)期、魏晉南北朝時(shí)期、隋唐時(shí)期、宋元時(shí)期、明清時(shí)期六個(gè)階段縱向梳理儒服的發(fā)展脈絡(luò),多從圖片資料和考古資料出發(fā)直觀展現(xiàn)各個(gè)時(shí)期的基本樣式特點(diǎn)。 第二部分,通過對儒服流變的把握,揭示其中的發(fā)展遞嬗規(guī)律。主要揭示統(tǒng)治者的服飾政策、社會(huì)變動(dòng)、儒家的社會(huì)政治地位對儒服的影響。弄清儒服背后的政治意蘊(yùn)。 第三部分,闡述儒服對社會(huì)環(huán)境的互動(dòng)影響。分別從儒服與社會(huì)風(fēng)俗、儒服與道服等方面進(jìn)行論述,并橫向比較僧道服飾與儒服中的共同元素,以及各種服飾之間的互通有無。 第四部分,主要論述儒服的服裝樣式、服飾圖紋中所蘊(yùn)含的文化意蘊(yùn)。從儒者風(fēng)范的外化、等級倫理觀念的表征、“天人合一”理念的體現(xiàn)和儒家“兼容并蓄”思想的表現(xiàn)四個(gè)方面,揭示儒服款式、顏色等方面所表現(xiàn)的文化審美觀念,以體現(xiàn)儒家的服飾觀、世界觀、人生觀與哲學(xué)觀。。 第五部分,面對中國傳統(tǒng)文化的復(fù)興潮流,針對要求復(fù)興漢服的呼聲,儒服作為漢服的組成部分之一,有極其重要的地位。闡述儒服對理解、把握中國的傳統(tǒng)服飾文化、中國傳統(tǒng)的服飾審美觀念的重要性,進(jìn)而從歷史中尋找現(xiàn)代服飾改革的突破口。 通過對上述各部分的闡述,透視出儒服中所承載的儒家思想,其通過服飾的形式傳達(dá)給他人,并影響整個(gè)社會(huì)群體。對儒服嬗變的論述不僅可以闡明各個(gè)時(shí)期社會(huì)風(fēng)俗的特點(diǎn)、儒家思想的特點(diǎn),更證明服飾演變本身就是一部光輝燦爛的史書。
[Abstract]:Study on China ancient costume, is an important part of the study of ancient history. Not only is the embodiment of the material culture, is the history, politics, economy, military, the combination of factors of the culture, we can see through the clothing of different dynasties, different social background and social status, as Mr. Guo Moruo said: Study on the ancient costume we can see the locus of the development of ethnic culture.
Since 1980s, Mr. Shen Congwen's "China ancient costumes of" a book come out, clothing research widely attention in academic circles, the results continue to emerge. But the research of ancient trappings have paid much attention to funeral clothing, women's clothing, ethnic costumes, costumes, comprehensive research, in-depth study of Confucian clothes but few system. Clothing is the status and role of industry, political position, ideological tendency, the external signs of individual character. Not only Confucian clothes can reflect Confucian political position, ideological tendency and individual character, but also from one side reflects the social customs and the rulers of a certain period of time the clothing policy, and Confucian scholars. In the historical and political status during this period. The historical research on the ancient China confucianclothes comprehensively, understand the Confucian clothes in every stage of historical development of the concrete Confucianclothes popular style, class, class, political implication and cultural connotation of Confucian clothes behind the Confucian clothes at the time all dress in the position to understand and grasp the Chinese traditional costume culture and Chinese traditional costume aesthetic ideas, and to find a breakthrough in modern dress reform from history, are very important the academic value and practical significance.
This paper tries to three-dimensional Chinese ancient Confucian clothes of a full range of inspection, directly shows the specific style of Confucian clothes in each historical stage, grasp the development and evolution regularity of the ancient Confucian clothes. This paper mainly discusses the following five aspects:
The first part is mainly from the pre Qin period, the Han and Wei dynasties, the northern and Southern Dynasties, the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the song and Yuan Dynasties, the six stages of Ming and Qing Dynasties, and carding the development of Confucian costume longitudinally.
The second part, based on the rheological confucianclothes grasp, reveals the development evolution regularity of them. Mainly reveals the rulers clothing policy of social change, influence the social and political position of Confucian clothes. Understand the political implication behind the Confucian clothes.
The third part expounds the interactive influence of Confucian costume on social environment. It discusses from Confucian costume and social customs, Confucian service and Taoist clothing, and compares the common elements of monks and Taoist costumes and Confucian costume, and the interaction between various costumes.
The fourth part mainly discusses the Confucian clothes clothing style, cultural implication in the dress pattern. From the outside of the Confucian style, characterized by hierarchy ethics, "four heaven" and "reflects the concept of Confucian thought, fully inclusive and equitable" reveals the Confucian clothes style, the color etc. the cultural and aesthetic ideas, which embodies the Confucian clothing concept, world outlook, outlook on life and philosophy.
The fifth part, in the face of China the revival of traditional culture trend, the Hanfu confucianclothes as part of the Hanfu, has an extremely important position. This confucianclothes to understand, grasp the Chinese traditional costume culture, the importance of Chinese traditional dress aesthetic concept, and then find a breakthrough from the history of modern dress reform.
Based on the parts of the paper, the perspective of Confucian clothes of Confucian ideas, through their clothes in the form of message to others, and affect the entire social groups. The discussion of Confucian clothes can not only explain the characteristics of social customs in different period, characteristics of Confucianism, that the evolution of costume itself is a shine with great splendor the history books.

【學(xué)位授予單位】：山東師范大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2009
【分類號】：K892.23

【引證文獻(xiàn)】

相關(guān)博士學(xué)位論文 前1條

1 邢千里;中國歷代孔子圖像演變研究[D];山東大學(xué);2010年

相關(guān)碩士學(xué)位論文 前2條

1 劉正華;地域文化主題酒店的特色構(gòu)建研究[D];山東大學(xué);2010年

2 夏夢;中國傳統(tǒng)服飾與時(shí)尚結(jié)合之探索[D];天津科技大學(xué);2010年

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本文編號：1694988