【摘要】：我國南海幅員遼闊,資源豐富,廣泛分布了大量的珊瑚島礁。研究島嶼、島礁鄰近海域的波浪計算對于在珊瑚礁盤頂部修造建筑物以及在瀉湖內(nèi)選建港址等都具有重要的現(xiàn)實意義。由于珊瑚島礁的存在會引起水深的急劇變化,大多數(shù)學(xué)者都將島礁地形簡化為臺階地形進(jìn)行研究,本文主要研究波浪從深水穿越過礁坪頂部傳到瀉湖的傳播過程,因此在前人的基礎(chǔ)上,將地形簡化為坡度為1：5的陡坡加較長水平礁坪段和瀉湖段的地形。采用斷面物理模型試驗分別對規(guī)則波和不規(guī)則波在該地形上的傳播過程、破碎引起的波浪頻譜變化、變形導(dǎo)致的波浪非線性特征參數(shù)變化以及波浪的波高分布等進(jìn)行了系統(tǒng)的分析。對波浪在該地形上的傳播過程進(jìn)行描述,并對礁坪上和瀉湖內(nèi)的波高與礁坪上水深的關(guān)系進(jìn)行分析。對于發(fā)生破碎的波浪,討論破碎引起的波浪頻譜變化以及能量轉(zhuǎn)移情況。同時,對于該地形上波浪的不對稱度、偏度和Ur參數(shù)的沿程變化以及不對稱度、偏度與Ur參數(shù)之間的關(guān)系進(jìn)行分析。將波浪在該地形上的波高分布與格魯霍夫斯基分布和瑞利分布進(jìn)行比較,驗證實測特征波高與理論特征波高之間的關(guān)系,并對波浪各特征波高之間的關(guān)系進(jìn)行研究。本文初步給出了島礁瀉湖地形上不對稱度、偏度與Ur參數(shù)關(guān)系的經(jīng)驗公式、波浪各特征波高之間關(guān)系的擬合公式以及波浪破碎后頻譜的變化情況。研究成果可以為實際海洋工程和水深劇變地形上波浪傳播的數(shù)值模型研究等提供試驗依據(jù)和參考。
[Abstract]:China's South China Sea has a vast territory and abundant resources, and a large number of coral islands and reefs are widely distributed. It is of great practical significance to study the islands and the waves in the adjacent waters of the islands and reefs for the construction of buildings at the top of the coral reef and for the selection of port sites in the lagoon. Because the existence of coral reef can cause the sharp change of water depth, most scholars simplify the island and reef terrain to step topography. In this paper, the propagation process of waves passing through the top of the reef flat to the lagoon is studied in this paper. Therefore, on the basis of previous studies, the terrain is simplified to that of steep slope with 1:5 slope and long horizontal reef plateau and lagoon section. The cross section physical model test is used to analyze the wave spectrum variation caused by the breaking of regular wave and irregular wave on the terrain, respectively. The variation of wave nonlinear characteristic parameters and wave height distribution caused by deformation are systematically analyzed. The propagation process of waves in this terrain is described, and the relationship between wave height and water depth in lagoons and lagoons is analyzed. In the case of broken waves, the wave spectrum and energy transfer caused by breakage are discussed. At the same time, the relationship between the asymmetry degree, deviation degree and Ur parameter along the course and the asymmetry degree and the Ur parameter are analyzed. The wave height distribution on the terrain is compared with the Grukowski distribution and the Rayleigh distribution. The relationship between the measured characteristic wave height and the theoretical characteristic wave height is verified, and the relationship between the wave characteristic wave heights is studied. In this paper, the empirical formula of the relationship between the asymmetry degree, deviation degree and Ur parameters in the lagoon topography, the fitting formula of the relationship between the wave height and the wave characteristic wave height, and the variation of the frequency spectrum after the wave breaking are given in this paper. The research results can provide experimental basis and reference for practical ocean engineering and numerical model study of wave propagation on the topography of water depth upheaval.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：大連理工大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2016
【分類號】：TV139.2

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