本文關鍵詞： 近代漢族民間服飾 中原地域 服飾變遷 文化傳播　出處：《江南大學》2017年博士論文　論文類型：學位論文

【摘要】：互聯(lián)網(wǎng)與新媒體技術高速發(fā)展為人們帶來便捷生活的同時也弱化了文化的多元性與差異性,原有農耕文明構建下龐大的中華民間文化即將消散。近年來,傳統(tǒng)文化復興熱潮促進了我國服飾遺產的保護與傳承,但國內學者往往對特殊地域的少數(shù)民族服飾表現(xiàn)出極大的熱情,而對在時間和空間上均占主導地位的中原漢族民間服飾研究卻明顯不夠。服飾是社會發(fā)展與文化變遷的視覺語言,是被符號化的文化傳播媒介。獨特的地理環(huán)境與人文氛圍促使中原地區(qū)形成了漢族與少數(shù)民族交融多樣的服飾文化遺產,是凝結我國璀璨民間藝術精神的重要載體,也是當今信息全球化背景下,保持中華民族文化獨立性的寶貴財富。對近代中原漢族民間服飾變遷的研究,不僅可以透過其流變現(xiàn)象掌握社會發(fā)展規(guī)律與地域文化特征,同時考析服飾作為文化傳播媒介的屬性及與社會變革的相互關系,為當下傳統(tǒng)服飾文化遺產保護與傳播提供經驗參照。本文從以中原漢族民間服飾為研究對象,選取近代這一時間段,通過大量服飾傳世品實物分析,結合地方史志、近代報刊雜志、著作、論文等文獻資料考證,探討了服飾形制、材質、色彩、裝飾、圖案等藝術特征以及典型禮儀服飾的流變,借鑒傳播學、符號學原理,探究了服飾的媒介屬性、文化傳播機制以及近代中原民間服飾文化傳播方式變革與服飾流變的相互關系,并結合中原傳統(tǒng)服飾文化傳播現(xiàn)狀,提出其傳統(tǒng)服飾文化現(xiàn)代傳播策略。主要結論如下：(一)以廣大農村為主的近代中原民間著裝多沿習明清服飾上衣下裳的舊制,呈現(xiàn)中西雜糅、緩慢西化的狀態(tài)。服飾種類豐富,造型變化多樣,具有“重縫紉,輕裁剪”、“重配飾、輕服裝”的特征。利用圖像處理技術提出了基于Mean-shift聚類分析的傳統(tǒng)服飾實物圖像主體色彩檢測方法,中原地區(qū)民間服飾傾向于玄、赤、青三色,圖案配色多遵循題材本身色彩,采用“色彩推移”的色彩搭配原則：刺繡、緣飾等裝飾工藝拙質樸實又清新秀麗,兼具南北刺繡特色：服飾材料以棉、麻、絲等天然纖維為主要原料,因服裝形制與著裝場合的需要,選材差異性明顯。(二)中原地區(qū)漢族民間服飾習俗與信仰保留完整,禮儀服飾款式穩(wěn)定。近代中原漢族民間禮儀服飾主要包含誕生、婚嫁、喪葬三種類型,誕生禮儀服飾寓意趨吉避害,子嗣繁衍昌盛的傳統(tǒng)觀念�；槎Y服飾受近代以來外來文化的影響,中西合璧、移風易俗的現(xiàn)象明顯。喪葬禮儀服飾遵循“喪服,以辨親疏,葬服,以佑后代”的民俗文化內涵,體現(xiàn)中原重倫理、孝道的傳統(tǒng)觀念。服飾色彩、圖案、刺繡等藝術形式是表現(xiàn)中原服飾文化內涵的重要載體,不僅富有地域性的審美取向與約定俗成的行為規(guī)范,同時注重人際間與代系間文化傳播的倫理教化意義。(三)近代中原漢族民間服飾變遷經歷了一個循序漸進的過程。服飾形制、色彩、裝飾圖案等外在表象更加豐富,服裝搭配方式多樣,著裝行為及選擇自由度空間增大,逾制之風盛行。政治、經濟與文化的變革是影響近代中原民間服飾流變的重要因素,其中政治因素起到引導作用,經濟為服飾流變提供了物質基礎,而近代以來逐漸平等、民主的文化傳播環(huán)境是促使服飾變革的主要推動力。(四)服飾在文化傳播過程中是物質實體、符號指代與信息要素三個層面合一的媒介。服飾作為文化傳播媒介具有傳播內容豐富、傳播效果及時直觀、傳播方向時代差異性明顯、傳播方式多樣的特征。傳播方式由傳播關系和傳播工具構成,近代文化傳播主體更加多元,由封建統(tǒng)治階層、皇宮貴族轉向政治人物、社會精英、知識分子、社交名媛等群體。報刊、雜事、電影等大眾傳媒技術的進步是影響中原漢族服飾文化流變的重要因素。(五)日新月異的媒體技術改變了原有傳播方式,并逐步構建著新的文化格局,服飾文化傳播由大眾媒體時代逐層傳播轉向由點到點、由點到面及由面到面的網(wǎng)狀傳播。根據(jù)接觸服飾信息的層次重新劃分了受眾類型,指出在當今消費社會,消費者是服飾文化傳播的核心推動力,傳統(tǒng)服飾的實用性是影響消費者接受度的重要因素；最后,結合中原傳統(tǒng)服飾文化傳播現(xiàn)狀,提出以服飾文化傳播受眾即廣大消費者為核心,培養(yǎng)文化自信,促進消費增長是傳統(tǒng)服飾文化得以廣泛傳播的有效途徑。
[Abstract]:The rapid development of the Internet and new media technology brings convenience for people's life also weaken the diversity of cultural differences and the original construction of large farming civilization of Chinese folk culture will disappear. In recent years, the revival of traditional culture to promote the upsurge of China's clothing heritage protection and inheritance, but domestic scholars tend to particular regions. The ethnic costumes showed great enthusiasm, and Study on the Han folk costumes were dominant in time and space is obviously not enough. Clothing is the social development and cultural changes of the visual language, culture media was symbolic. The geographical environment and the unique cultural atmosphere of the region of the Han nationality and prompted the Central Plains blend of diverse minority costume culture heritage, is an important carrier of China's bright condensation the spirit of folk art, is also the information under the background of globalization, holding in Treasure of Chinese culture. The independence of the study on modern Han nationality folk costume changes, not only through its rheological phenomenon to grasp the laws of social development and the characteristics of regional culture, at the same time the examination of the clothing as attributes of culture media and social change in the relationship, to provide experience for reference for the present traditional costume culture heritage protection and spread. Based in the Central Plains Han folk costume as the research object, selected in this period, through a large number of apparel goods handed down physical analysis, combined with the local history, modern newspapers and magazines, books, papers and other documents research, discusses the costume style, material, color, decorative pattern art, rheological characteristics and typical etiquette fashion, using the dissemination principle, semiotics, explores the media properties of costumes, cultural transmission mechanism and the modern Central Plains Folk Costume spread of culture change and The relationship between clothing rheology, combined with the status quo of traditional costume culture of the Central Plains spread, the traditional costume culture of the modern communication strategy. The main conclusions are as follows: (a) in the vast rural areas mainly in Modern Central Plains along the Xi sang a folk dress of the Ming and Qing Dynasties dress coat, showing the combination of Chinese and Western culture, slowly westernized state. A variety of clothing, other variety, with "heavy light cutting, sewing," "heavy clothing accessories, characteristics of light" is proposed. The measurement method of traditional clothing physical image subject Mean-shift clustering analysis based on color detection using image processing technology, the Central Plains folk costumes tend to black, red, cyan color pattern, followed the theme color the color goes on, "the color collocation principle: embroidery, decorative edging process simple and humble quality fresh and beautiful, both north and south of embroidery: clothing material characteristics of cotton, hemp, silk etc. 澶╃劧綰ょ淮涓轟富瑕佸師鏂，

本文編號：1485847