【摘要】：本文研究將重點關(guān)注昆劇服飾的藝術(shù)特色,以及昆劇服裝的穿戴規(guī)制與特點。論文從設(shè)計藝術(shù)學(xué)的角度出發(fā),研究分析昆劇傳統(tǒng)劇目中的典型人物服飾(款式、色彩、紋樣、面料、工藝)。文章第二章主要分析了昆劇服飾的款式、色彩、紋樣、面料、工藝五個設(shè)計要素,重點梳理分析了劇目人物服飾與各要素之間的關(guān)系,五個設(shè)計要素如何通過服裝來表現(xiàn)劇目中的人物。第三章主要從昆劇人物行當?shù)慕嵌瘸霭l(fā),首先研究分析行當與人物服飾之間的關(guān)系。其次是分析了昆劇人物行當劃分的依據(jù)在服飾上是如何表現(xiàn)的,比如人物年齡、身份、性格、氣質(zhì)、人格、職業(yè)等都會體現(xiàn)在服飾的款式、色彩、紋樣、面料、工藝五個設(shè)計要素上。第四章是昆劇傳統(tǒng)劇目人物形象塑造的分析。如劇目人物的心情變化與服裝色彩的變化關(guān)系,劇目人物境遇變化與服裝款式的變化關(guān)系。分析了劇目人物服飾色彩的表現(xiàn)。第五章是分析了劇目服飾與舞臺表現(xiàn)之間的關(guān)系,主要分析了服飾款式的可舞性,服裝(款式、搭配、色彩及紋樣、面料)的裝飾性,服飾組合及搭配的程式性等。 本文對傳統(tǒng)昆劇劇目人物服飾的研究主要得出以下幾個結(jié)論： 一、昆劇傳統(tǒng)服飾的款式、色彩、紋樣、面料、工藝五個設(shè)計要素與劇目中的人物身份、性格、氣質(zhì)、性別、職位等相互關(guān)聯(lián)�？钍降膹�(fù)雜意味著人物有身份,色彩在服飾上有諸多褒貶的象征意義,包括政治等級、文化習(xí)俗、情境等。紋樣的越繁復(fù),標志職位越高。面料在服裝表現(xiàn)上有助于演員表現(xiàn)人物內(nèi)在情緒。工藝(刺繡)手法可以增強服裝的厚重感,從而更好地表現(xiàn)人物形象。 二、昆劇人物的分類形成了行當,行當人物的服裝設(shè)計要素也有自身的特點。如文扮與武扮的人物在服裝款式上有本質(zhì)的區(qū)別,而在面料的使用上有共同點。同一個行當?shù)娜宋?在整體服飾搭配方面會依據(jù)人物的個性而有所不同。身份的尊卑也是直接體現(xiàn)在服裝的款式、色彩、面料、紋樣、工藝上。 三、在傳統(tǒng)昆劇劇目中,人物服飾變化與傳統(tǒng)劇目的情節(jié)變化有關(guān)系。昆劇傳統(tǒng)劇目中,人物心情變化影響服裝色彩的變化,人物境遇的改變影響服裝款式的改變。 四、昆劇服飾的舞臺表現(xiàn)力主要有可舞性與裝飾性,如“水袖”、“白裙打腰”的可舞性。色彩在服裝上具有較強的裝飾性,色彩表現(xiàn)直接關(guān)系到人物氣質(zhì)的舞臺上的塑造。人物服飾的整體搭配也促進角色裝扮的個性化。
[Abstract]:This paper will focus on the artistic characteristics of Kunqu opera clothing, as well as the wear regulation and characteristics of Kunqu opera clothing. From the point of view of design art, this paper studies and analyzes the dress of typical characters (style, color, pattern, fabric, craft) in the traditional repertoire of Kunqu Opera. The second chapter of the article mainly analyzes the five design elements of Kunqu opera dress: style, color, pattern, fabric and craft, and analyzes the relationship between the costume of the characters in the repertoire and each factor. The five elements of design show the characters in the repertoire through clothing. The third chapter mainly from the perspective of Kunqu opera character behavior, first of all, study and analyze the relationship between industry and character dress. Secondly, it analyzes how the basis of the division of Kunqu opera's characters in dress, such as character's age, identity, character, temperament, personality, occupation and so on, will be reflected in the style, color, pattern, fabric, etc., of the characters in Kunqu Opera, which is based on their age, identity, character, temperament, personality and occupation. Process five design elements. The fourth chapter is the analysis of the image of the characters in the traditional repertoire of Kunqu Opera. For example, the relationship between the mood change of the repertoire character and the change of clothing color, the relation between the change of the situation of the repertoire character and the change of clothing style. This paper analyzes the expression of the dress color of the characters in the repertoire. The fifth chapter analyzes the relationship between the repertoire dress and the stage performance, mainly analyzes the style of the dress dance, clothing (style, collocation, color and pattern, fabric) decoration, dress combination and collocation of the program, and so on. The following conclusions are drawn in this paper: first, the five design elements of the traditional costumes of Kunqu Opera, such as style, color, pattern, fabric, craft, and the characters' identity, character and temperament in the repertoire, are as follows: 1) the traditional costumes of Kunqu Opera are composed of five design elements: style, color, pattern, fabric and craft. Gender, position, etc are interrelated. The complexity of the style means that the character has the identity, and the color has many symbolic meanings in the dress, including political hierarchy, cultural custom, situation and so on. The more complex the pattern, the higher the mark position. The fabric in the clothing performance helps the actor to express the character's inner emotion. Craftsmanship (embroidery) can enhance the heavy sense of clothing, thus better performance of the character image. Second, the classification of Kunqu opera characters has formed the profession, and the clothing design elements of the characters have their own characteristics. For example, there are essential differences in clothing styles between figures dressed up and martial arts, and there is common ground in the use of fabrics. The same character, in the overall dress collocation will vary according to the character of the character. The status of inferiority is also directly reflected in clothing style, color, fabric, patterns, craftsmanship. Third, in the traditional Kunqu opera repertoire, the character dress change is related to the plot change of the traditional opera. In the traditional repertoire of Kunqu opera, the change of mood affects the change of clothing color, and the change of character's situation affects the change of clothing style. Fourth, the stage performance of Kunqu opera costume mainly has dance and decoration, such as "water sleeves", "white skirt beating waist" dance. Color in clothing has a strong decorative, color performance directly related to the character temperament on the stage molding. The whole collocation of the character dress also promotes the personalization of the character dress.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：東華大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2010
【分類號】：J825

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