本文選題：暗紋　切入點(diǎn)：色彩特征　出處：《江南大學(xué)》2017年碩士論文　論文類型：學(xué)位論文

【摘要】：暗紋織物一直以來都是一種非常重要的織物品種,是在當(dāng)今的社會中依然可以看到大量這種裝飾的服飾、紡織品和裝飾品,但是對于暗紋的定義在學(xué)術(shù)上卻沒有一個(gè)準(zhǔn)確的解釋。因此對暗紋的研究就顯得尤為重要。暗紋是指紋樣和裝飾載體在視覺上的差異不明顯的一個(gè)裝飾手法,學(xué)術(shù)上關(guān)于對暗紋的直接研究成果并不多,但是間接對暗紋研究的相關(guān)文獻(xiàn)則不勝枚舉,這為本文的研究提供了理論基礎(chǔ)和研究方法。暗紋的運(yùn)用十分廣泛,本次研究課題將在現(xiàn)代設(shè)計(jì)理論中,圍繞暗紋的裝飾、色彩特點(diǎn)的研究,運(yùn)用色彩學(xué)的基本原理探索暗紋的各種配色的可能性,以及暗紋裝飾可以為街頭風(fēng)格服飾的設(shè)計(jì)帶來一定的實(shí)用性和創(chuàng)新性的影響。本文從近代漢族民間服飾的暗紋裝飾入手,探究暗紋在色彩學(xué)中的特點(diǎn)、對裝飾的影響和裝飾規(guī)律,基于市場數(shù)據(jù)研究傳統(tǒng)紋樣以暗紋的形式在現(xiàn)代服裝設(shè)計(jì)中的應(yīng)用。其中暗紋在色彩學(xué)中的特點(diǎn)和暗紋對裝飾的影響和裝飾規(guī)律為本位的重點(diǎn),為暗紋服飾設(shè)計(jì)提供了理論前提。首先運(yùn)用實(shí)地與網(wǎng)絡(luò)調(diào)查相結(jié)合的方式,從各大圖書館、博物館以及江南大學(xué)民間服飾傳習(xí)館的數(shù)據(jù)庫中收集了大量圖片、文獻(xiàn)資料等,通過分類、歸納、整理的方式,并運(yùn)用相關(guān)知識對近代漢族民間服飾的暗紋有了初步的了解。其次,運(yùn)用相關(guān)理論,經(jīng)過分析、對比,總結(jié)出近代漢族民間服飾暗紋的裝飾對視覺的作用與反作用,以及服飾暗紋裝飾所遇到的局限性,結(jié)合人類學(xué)方面的相關(guān)知識,并對紋樣裝飾的象征作用做出解讀。再次,運(yùn)用色彩的色相、純度、明度三個(gè)要素對暗紋的色彩進(jìn)行分析,得到了近代漢族民間服飾的暗紋色彩特點(diǎn),并發(fā)現(xiàn)了北方山西地區(qū)與南方江南地區(qū)的服飾暗紋色彩的特點(diǎn),并運(yùn)用文獻(xiàn)和實(shí)物相結(jié)合的方法對當(dāng)時(shí)色彩僭禮行為的原因進(jìn)行分析,之后運(yùn)用色彩三要素建立了色彩坐標(biāo)系,并選取錨點(diǎn)色彩,通過與錨點(diǎn)色彩的三圍對比,得出暗紋在色彩學(xué)的特征。最后經(jīng)過網(wǎng)絡(luò)調(diào)研,實(shí)地調(diào)研和調(diào)查問卷的形式了解當(dāng)今年輕人的消費(fèi)喜好、消費(fèi)傾向和風(fēng)格偏好,最后結(jié)合街頭風(fēng)格服飾的特點(diǎn),運(yùn)用暗紋的色彩特征進(jìn)行設(shè)計(jì)實(shí)踐,從中總結(jié)出暗紋在街頭風(fēng)格的服裝設(shè)計(jì)方法,以達(dá)到研究目的。
[Abstract]:Dark stripe fabric has been a very important variety of fabric, in today's society can still see a lot of the decorative clothing, textiles and accessories, but the definition of the dark lines in the academic is not an accurate explanation. So it is important to research the dark lines dark lines. Refers to a decoration decoration patterns and differences in the visual carrier is not obvious, the academic research on directly about the dark lines are not many, but indirectly related literature on the dark lines of research is that for this study be too numerous to enumerate, and provided the theoretical basis and research methods. The use of dark lines widely, this research topic in modern design theory, around the dark lines of decoration, color characteristics, the possibility of using the basic principle of color science to explore various color dark lines, and dark lines can be decorated the streets Bring some practical and innovative design style clothing. This article from the folk dress in modern Han decoration with dark, dark stripes in the color inquiry in the decoration and decorative effect, rules and market research data in the form of traditional patterns of dark lines used in modern clothing design based on. The dark lines in color in the dark and influence on the decoration and decorative pattern as the standard key, provides a theoretical premise for dark clothing design. First, the use of field survey and network combination, from the library, museum and folk costumes Museum of Jiangnan University collected in the database a large number of pictures, documents, through the classification, induction, consolidation, and use the knowledge of modern Han nationality folk costume dark lines have a preliminary understanding. Secondly, using the related theory, through analysis, Comparison, summed up the modern Chinese folk costume decoration of dark lines and anti visual effects, limitations and clothing decoration dark encountered, combined with knowledge of anthropology, and the decorative pattern symbolism interpretation. Once again, the use of color hue, purity, color of the three elements of dark brightness pattern analysis, the dark color characteristics of the folk dress of Han nationality in China, and found that the characteristics of the northern Shanxi region and southern Jiangnan clothing dark color, and the use of reason was beyond ceremony behavior color literature and physical combination analysis, then use the three color elements of color coordinates is established system, and select the anchor and anchor measurements by comparing the color, color, draw lines on the characteristics of color. After the final form of network research, field survey and questionnaire to understand when this year Light people's consumption preferences, consumption preferences and style preferences. Finally, combined with the characteristics of street style costumes, we use the color characteristics of dark patches to carry out the design practice, and conclude the fashion design methods of dark streaks in street style, so as to achieve the purpose of research.

【學(xué)位授予單位】：江南大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2017
【分類號】：TS941.742.8

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