本文關鍵詞： 章補紋飾 現(xiàn)代服裝 運用方法 設計實踐　出處：《浙江理工大學》2015年碩士論文　論文類型：學位論文

【摘要】：補子作為一種官員身份和等級的標識，是明清時期發(fā)達織造工藝的產(chǎn)物，它的紋樣精美、做工考究、寓意豐富，具有極高的藝術審美性和文化寓意性，是中國古代服飾中最能體現(xiàn)中國文化特征的飾物之一。在《收藏“補子”》一文稱：補子是西方人收求的中國織繡品中，最受歡迎的一種，具有很高的藝術價值、文化價值、審美價值與收藏價值。補子作為中國傳統(tǒng)服飾紋樣的精品，對現(xiàn)代服裝設計中的服飾圖案的設計具有很好的借鑒意義。大部分涉及補子紋樣的相關歷史書籍與文獻資料，都是關于補子在何種品級的官員穿戴何種紋樣的補子的研究，僅僅停留在補子紋樣的辨別層面以及補子紋樣特點的解析層面。而把補子紋飾運用到現(xiàn)代服裝設計中的研究并不是很多，，在這方面缺乏一些相關理論研究的指導。 本論文以明清章補紋飾的研究為基礎，研究和探討如何將其應用于現(xiàn)代服裝設計領域。首先，本文從章補紋飾的起源、紋樣解析、寓意性、審美性和文化性等方面進行研究，對形成系統(tǒng)而全面的章補紋飾理論作一定的基礎性研究工作；其次，本文在概括總結章補紋樣的概念、特點的基礎上，結合一些國內外著名設計師作品，研究如何運用章補紋樣進行服裝設計，主要從從圖案、色彩、質地、神韻等方面進行分析；第三，本文結合前三章中對明清章補紋飾特征分析及其在現(xiàn)代服裝設計中的應用分析，并結合第三章中所提出的設計創(chuàng)新前景進行系列設計實踐。其中包括兩個系列，第一個系列的設計側重點為章補紋樣的創(chuàng)新運用；第二個系列主要側重于紋樣內涵審美角度，根據(jù)設計需求對紋樣進行再設計，并進行系列服裝設計。 本文在大量文獻與資料閱讀的基礎上，對明清章補紋飾中的非主題紋樣按照裝飾部位重新盡了劃分，分為了內容裝飾紋樣、邊飾紋樣和背景紋樣，是對前人研究的深化；本文以章補紋飾的概念、構成、寓意為基礎，以現(xiàn)代服裝設計的理念，現(xiàn)代服裝設計對紋樣特征的要求，現(xiàn)代服裝設計的設計原則和東西方對明清章補紋飾設計手法的運用和運用形式分析為前提，得出了明清章補紋飾在現(xiàn)代服裝設計中的運用特點：西方設計師對章補紋樣的運用更多的是紋樣形式上的直白運用，運用手法多集中在直接應用、化繁為簡、抽象變形等設計手法，而東方設計師由于對本民族文化有著深刻的理解，對章補紋飾的運用更加注重東方神韻的傳達，并在具體的表達中結合中國傳統(tǒng)的工藝，在準確傳達東方神韻的同時而又極具視覺美感；本文的設計實踐部分亦是從本文結論出發(fā)，分別從紋樣創(chuàng)新和紋樣內涵審美的角度對第三章的結論進行了運用。希望通過對章補紋樣的理論歸納和設計實踐的分析能為章補紋樣在現(xiàn)代服裝設計中的運用的創(chuàng)新起到一定的借鑒作用。
[Abstract]:As a symbol of official status and rank, Buzi is the product of the developed weaving technology in Ming and Qing dynasties. It has fine patterns, fine workmanship, rich moral and high artistic aesthetic and cultural implication. "Buzi" is one of the most characteristic ornaments in ancient Chinese clothing. "Buzi" is one of the most popular Chinese embroidery products that westerners ask for. It has high artistic value, cultural value, aesthetic value and collection value. It has a good reference significance for the design of clothing patterns in modern fashion design. Most of the related historical books and documents related to patchwork patterns. It is all about the research of the patchwork in which grade officials wear what pattern. Only stay in the patchwork pattern discrimination level and patchwork pattern characteristics of the analytic level. But the application of patchwork patterns in modern clothing design is not a lot of research. In this respect, there is a lack of some relevant theoretical research guidance. This paper is based on the research of the Ming and Qing Dynasty, research and discuss how to apply it to the field of modern clothing design. First, this paper from the origin, pattern analysis, meaning. The aesthetic and cultural aspects of the study, the formation of a systematic and comprehensive chapter and decoration theory for a certain basic research work; Secondly, on the basis of summarizing the concept and characteristics of the pattern, combined with some famous designers at home and abroad, this paper studies how to use the pattern to carry on the clothing design, mainly from the design, the color, the texture. The charm and other aspects of the analysis; Third, this article combined with the first three chapters of the Ming and Qing Dynasty Zhang complementary decorative features and its application in modern clothing design analysis. And combined with the design innovation prospect proposed in the third chapter to carry out a series of design practice, including two series, the first series of design focus on the innovative use of chapter patterns; The second series mainly focuses on the aesthetic point of view of pattern connotation, according to the design needs to redesign the pattern, and carry out a series of clothing design. On the basis of reading a large number of documents and materials, this paper reclassifies the non-thematic patterns in the Ming and Qing Dynasty Zhanfu patterns according to the decorative parts, and divides them into decorative patterns, edge patterns and background patterns. Is the deepening of previous studies; This paper is based on the concept, composition and implication of the decoration, and on the concept of modern fashion design, the requirements of modern fashion design on the pattern characteristics. The design principle of modern fashion design and the analysis of the application and application form of the decoration design method of the Ming and Qing dynasties are the premise of the East-West. Obtained in the Ming and Qing Dynasty in the use of modern clothing design features: Western designers of the use of patterns is more direct use of patterns, the use of techniques are concentrated in direct application, complex into simple. Abstract deformation and other design techniques, and the oriental designers because of their profound understanding of the national culture, the use of zhanfu patterns pay more attention to the communication of Oriental charm, and in the specific expression of the combination of Chinese traditional technology. In the accurate transmission of Oriental charm at the same time and very visual aesthetic sense; The design practice part of this paper is also based on the conclusion of this paper. The conclusion of chapter three is applied from the angle of pattern innovation and pattern connotation aesthetics respectively. It is hoped that through the theoretical induction and design practice analysis of the chapter supplement pattern, it can be used in the modern clothing design. Innovation plays a certain role in reference.
【學位授予單位】：浙江理工大學
【學位級別】：碩士
【學位授予年份】：2015
【分類號】：TS941.2

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本文編號：1472026