發(fā)布時間：2018-08-20 19:28

【摘要】：民國時期是中國傳統(tǒng)服飾受西方文化影響并產(chǎn)生變革的重要階段,同時也是中國傳統(tǒng)女裝向現(xiàn)代化女裝發(fā)展的重要轉型期。該時期的女裝形制變化多樣且富有特色,其中女性“倒大袖”上衣是20世紀20年代的標志性女裝。雖然“倒大袖”上衣僅僅盛行了十余年的光景,但以其獨具特色的藝術審美和有別于傳統(tǒng)女裝的設計形態(tài),使女性服飾向現(xiàn)代化發(fā)展往前推進了一步。本文從服飾文化的角度著手,對“倒大袖”上衣形成的歷史背景、藝術審美、穿搭方式及文明變革等方面進行深入研究。通過對江南大學民間服飾傳習館中收藏的29件女性“倒大袖”上衣實物進行細致分析,以及對于相關歷史文獻、數(shù)據(jù)庫文獻資料和圖片資料的查閱,用實物測量與史料記載相結合的方法,全面分析民國時期女性“倒大袖”上衣的款式造型、面料材質、服裝色彩、圖案紋樣、裝飾工藝、結構及制作工藝等的整體服飾藝術審美特點,并著重選取“倒大袖”上衣的衣袖、衣身、衣擺、衣襟、紐扣等局部服飾特點加以研究,總結“倒大袖”上衣獨特的審美特點。民國女性“倒大袖”上衣既是對傳統(tǒng)服飾和諧有序的繼承,又是對現(xiàn)代審美的開拓,其服裝形態(tài)是在東西方文化交融的環(huán)境影響下形成,因此服飾特點與中國傳統(tǒng)女裝相互區(qū)別。通過研究“倒大袖”上衣的穿搭方式,將其與晚清時期的女性穿搭相比較,分析其整體穿搭造型的變化,從服飾的變化中顯露出社會文化的轉型以及該時期的社會文化、文明思想以及民俗特點。歸納總結出民國時期女性“倒大袖”上衣發(fā)展的文明變革特點,較清末女裝來講,其審美要素由繁冗演變的簡潔,上衣的款式造型由寬大變得窄小,服飾著裝變得沒有社會地位高低之別,女性著裝心理演變?yōu)樽非髠�性、時尚、解放自我。
[Abstract]:The period of the Republic of China is an important stage for the Chinese traditional dress to be influenced and transformed by western culture. At the same time, it is also an important transition period for the development of Chinese traditional women's clothing to modern women's wear. In this period, the women's dress system varied and characteristic, among which the women's "inverted sleeves" coat was the iconic women's wear in the 1920s. Although the "inverted large sleeve" jacket has only prevailed for more than a decade, its unique artistic aesthetic and design form, which is different from the traditional women's dress, has pushed forward the development of women's clothing to the modernization. From the point of view of dress culture, this paper makes a deep study on the historical background, artistic aesthetics, wearing style and civilization change of "inverted big sleeve" jacket. Through the careful analysis of 29 pieces of women's "inverted sleeves" jacket collected in the folk dress biography hall of Jiangnan University, as well as the reference to relevant historical documents, database documents and picture materials, By means of the combination of physical measurement and historical records, this paper comprehensively analyzes the style, fabric material, clothing color, pattern and decoration technology of women's "inverted big sleeves" jacket in the period of the Republic of China. The aesthetic characteristics of the whole dress art such as structure and production technology are studied, and the unique aesthetic characteristics of the "inverted big sleeve" coat are summarized by selecting the local clothing characteristics such as the sleeve, the body, the pendulum, the skirt, the button and so on. In the Republic of China, women's "inverted sleeves" coat is not only a harmonious and orderly inheritance of traditional dress, but also a development of modern aesthetics, and its clothing form is formed under the influence of the blend of eastern and western cultures. Therefore, the characteristics of clothing and traditional Chinese women's clothing are different from each other. By studying the way of wearing "inverted sleeves" blouse, comparing it with that of women in the late Qing Dynasty, this paper analyzes the change of its overall wearing style, which reveals the transformation of social culture and the social culture of that period from the change of dress. Civilized thoughts and folklore characteristics. The characteristics of civilization change of women's "inverted big sleeves" jacket in the period of the Republic of China are summarized. Compared with the women's clothing in the late Qing Dynasty, the aesthetic elements of the jacket are simple and simple, and the style of the jacket has changed from broad to narrow. Dress has no social status, women's dress psychology has evolved into the pursuit of personality, fashion, emancipation.
【學位授予單位】：江南大學
【學位級別】：碩士
【學位授予年份】：2017
【分類號】：TS941.1

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本文編號：2194743