【摘要】：隨著工業(yè)化進(jìn)程的加速,合成染料以其靚麗多變的色澤和持久優(yōu)良的牢度被予以廣泛使用；然而高效便捷之際,相應(yīng)的負(fù)面影響也隨之而來,合成染料在工業(yè)生產(chǎn)過程中給環(huán)境帶來的嚴(yán)重污染不容小覷。在全球綠色環(huán)保浪潮的呼吁下,古老的染色技法---天然植物染色以其無污染,可降解的最優(yōu)特性重回人們的視野,于是,植物染色的研究與推廣,可謂任重而道遠(yuǎn)。本文以最常用的染黑植物五倍子為染料,通過文獻(xiàn)查閱法、試驗法、比較分析法和設(shè)計應(yīng)用法四種方法相結(jié)合的方式,研究了其染液的染色原理、染色工藝、提取方法,并通過復(fù)染,吊染,套染的引申試驗,在一定比例的設(shè)定下,融合其他植物染液加以混合染色,突破五倍子傳統(tǒng)染色工藝,最后將試驗中的新成果運(yùn)用到服裝設(shè)計中來。只因黑色屬于“無彩色”,與其他有彩色混合后可呈現(xiàn)出不同的低純度色彩,正是以這一特性作為切入點,開始了五倍子混染的創(chuàng)新應(yīng)用研究。另黑色作為五行色之一,在歷史的長河中積淀了特有的視覺意味和文化韻味,正如清代畫家石濤對中國畫墨韻的贊美之詞,“墨團(tuán)團(tuán)黑團(tuán)團(tuán),黑墨團(tuán)中天地寬�！笨梢娖渌幍奈幕匚�,不言而喻。
[Abstract]:With the acceleration of industrialization, synthetic dyes have been widely used with their beautiful and changeable color and durable excellent fastness; however, when they are efficient and convenient, the corresponding negative effects will follow. The serious environmental pollution caused by synthetic dyes in industrial production should not be underestimated. Under the appeal of the global green wave, the ancient dyeing technique-natural plant dyeing, with its pollution-free, degradable and optimal characteristics, comes back to people's view. Therefore, the research and popularization of plant dyeing can be described as a long way to go. In this paper, the dyeing principle, dyeing technology and extraction method of the dyeing solution of the black plant Galla chinensis were studied by the methods of literature review, experiment, comparative analysis and design and application. And through the extension test of repeated dyeing, hanging dyeing and coloring, in a certain proportion of the set, mixed dyeing with other plant dyes to break through the traditional dyeing process of Galla chinensis. Finally, the new results of the experiment were applied to the clothing design. Because black belongs to "no color", it can present different low purity color after mixing with other colors. It is with this characteristic as the breakthrough point, the innovative application research of Chinese gallnut mixed dyeing has been started. Black, as one of the five colors, has accumulated special visual and cultural charm in the long river of history, just as Shi Tao, the painter of Qing Dynasty, praised the rhyme of Chinese ink painting, "the Black Tuan, the Heaven and Earth wide in Black Ink Tuan and Tuan." It can be seen that its cultural status, self-evident.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：北京服裝學(xué)院
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2017
【分類號】：TS941.2

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本文編號：2253871