本文選題：服裝思潮 + 啟蒙��； 參考：《江南大學》2017年碩士論文

【摘要】：我國近代(1840年~1949年)服裝新思潮是我國近代社會思潮的一部分,它在近代社會的變革中產(chǎn)生,是近代部分國人對服裝的動機、造型、色彩、工藝等內(nèi)容的新認識。我國近代服裝新思潮的“新”是相對我國古代的服裝“舊”思潮而言的。這兩者具有根本差異,其中前者的本質(zhì)是人文主義與科學主義,后者的本質(zhì)是“貴賤有差,衣服有等”的禮教。近代服裝新思潮是中國服裝近現(xiàn)代化的思想根源,對中國服裝的現(xiàn)代化進程具有重要的啟蒙意義。根據(jù)近代服裝新思潮所涉及的具體層面與價值體現(xiàn)的不同,可將近代服裝新思潮分為思想的啟蒙、藝術(shù)的啟蒙、技術(shù)的啟蒙三大類。思想的啟蒙,即向民眾指明為什么要“變服”,以及如何進行“變服”等問題,闡述了以人文主義與科學主義為核心的穿衣理念與相關實踐,藝術(shù)的啟蒙,即向民眾指明“變服”之后,新裝束如何為美的問題,闡述了近代服裝新思潮在服裝造型設計層面及審美價值趨向上的內(nèi)涵。技術(shù)的啟蒙,即向民眾指明制作和保養(yǎng)“美裝”、“新裝”的工藝手法與技術(shù)手段。近代服裝新思潮的啟蒙的實現(xiàn),離不開近代的報刊、法律通告、演講、競賽等傳播形式。近代報刊是傳播近代服裝新思潮的主要手段,其面向大眾、豐富多彩的形式,為近代服裝新思潮的普及奠定了基礎。此外,以自由、平等等為核心的服裝法律通告,以及有關“變服”的演講、競賽、互動也在一定程度上傳播了近代服裝新思潮。雖然服裝新思潮在近代各地區(qū)、各階層之間的傳播有差異,但總得來說,其形成離不開我國傳統(tǒng)文化的根基。近代服裝新思潮中的傳統(tǒng)文化根基主要是從思想文化的層面,探討傳統(tǒng)文化在近代服裝領域中的傳承問題。從先秦的孟子、墨子、老子、莊子到近世的李贄、李漁等人的思想中,均可看到與近代服裝新思潮遙相呼應的思想,它們在歷史的變遷中演變出新的內(nèi)涵。近代服裝新思潮是近代國人以西方文化為榜樣,追求“西化”(即現(xiàn)代化)和融合我國傳統(tǒng)文化而“化西”的產(chǎn)物。在以人文主義與科學主義為指導及對服裝“道”、“器”的重視下,近代服裝的創(chuàng)新與發(fā)展得到重視,近代女性解放及她們在服裝中的新風貌得以加速呈現(xiàn)。同時,近代乃至近代以后國人整體的思想意識、外在形象,以及我國服裝文化的現(xiàn)代化也受到近代服裝新思潮的推動。
[Abstract]:The new trend of thought of clothing in modern China (1840 ~ 1949) is a part of the trend of thought in modern society. It has emerged in the transformation of modern society. It is also a new understanding of the motive, modeling, color and technology of clothing among some people in modern times.The "new" trend of thought in modern Chinese clothing is relative to the "old" trend of thought in ancient China.The essence of the former is humanism and scientism.The new trend of thought of modern clothing is the ideological source of Chinese clothing near modernization, and it has important enlightenment significance to the modernization process of Chinese clothing.According to the difference between the concrete level and the value embodiment of the new trend of thought in modern clothing, the new trend of thought of modern clothing can be divided into three categories: the enlightenment of thought, the enlightenment of art and the enlightenment of technology.The enlightenment of thought, that is, to point out to the public why "changing clothes" and how to carry out "changing clothes" and so on, expounds the clothing dressing idea and related practice with humanism and scientism as the core, the enlightenment of art, etc.That is to say, it points out to the public how the new dress is beautiful after "changing clothes", and expounds the connotation of the new trend of modern fashion in the aspect of fashion modeling design and the trend of aesthetic value.The enlightenment of technology, that is, to point out to the public the production and maintenance of "beautiful", "new" techniques and technical means.The enlightenment of the new trend of thought in modern clothing can not be achieved without modern newspapers and periodicals, legal circulars, speeches, competitions and other forms of communication.Modern newspapers and periodicals are the main means of spreading the new trend of thought in modern clothing, which is oriented to the public and has rich and colorful forms, which lays a foundation for the popularization of the new trend of thought in modern clothing.In addition, the clothing legal notice with freedom and equality as the core, as well as the speech, competition and interaction about "changing clothes" also spread the new trend of thought in modern clothing to a certain extent.Although there are differences in the spread of the new trend of thought in modern times among different strata, in general terms, its formation can not be separated from the foundation of Chinese traditional culture.The foundation of traditional culture in the new trend of modern clothing is to probe into the inheritance of traditional culture in the field of modern clothing from the aspect of ideology and culture.From Mencius, Mozi, Laozi, Zhuangzi to Li Zhi and Li Yu in modern times, we can see that the thoughts echo with the new trend of modern clothing, and they have evolved new connotations in the changes of history.The new trend of thought in modern clothing is the product of "westernization" (modernization) and fusion of Chinese traditional culture with "westernization" and "westernization" by modern Chinese people who follow the example of western culture.Under the guidance of humanism and scientism and the emphasis on clothing "Tao" and "instrument", the innovation and development of modern clothing have been emphasized, and the liberation of modern women and their new style in clothing have been speeded up.At the same time, the ideological consciousness, the external image and the modernization of the clothing culture of our country are also promoted by the new trend of thought in the modern times and even after the modern times.
【學位授予單位】：江南大學
【學位級別】：碩士
【學位授予年份】：2017
【分類號】：TS941.12
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本文編號：1766140