本文關(guān)鍵詞： 和田手工地毯 羊毛 指標(biāo) 分析 驗證　出處：《新疆大學(xué)》2017年碩士論文　論文類型：學(xué)位論文

【摘要】：和田手工地毯是以當(dāng)?shù)睾吞镅蛎鳛榈靥涸暇幙椀牡靥�。和田手工地毯的成�?從原料收購、分揀、清洗、烘干、紡紗到編織及后整理,每一道工序都十分考究。和田手工地毯獨特的風(fēng)格和精湛的工藝造就了其馳名中外的聲譽,為當(dāng)?shù)厝嗣駧砹嗽S多財富。但近些年來,隨著人們面對利益時日漸膨脹的虛榮心,使得很多商人逐漸缺失信譽。市場上大部分的和田手工地毯早已是名不副實,選料不再是純正的和田羊毛,而是加入了大量的雜毛落毛,更有甚者,直接將內(nèi)地機(jī)器編織好的地毯成品運送到當(dāng)?shù)剡M(jìn)行銷售,以假充真,魚龍混雜。嚴(yán)重影響了和田手工地毯的聲譽。本文首先將采集好的羊毛進(jìn)行分揀、清洗、梳理,作為地毯的編織原料。然后對羊毛纖維的類型、細(xì)度、長度等一系列物理指標(biāo)進(jìn)行了的測試。結(jié)果表明:阿勒泰羊和巴什拜羊的毛纖維類型主要以絨毛和粗毛為主,并伴有少量的干死毛,兩者均無兩型毛。和田羊毛主要以絨毛和兩型毛為主,粗毛含量較少,為5.98%;和田羊,阿勒泰羊和巴什拜羊之間的絨毛細(xì)度差值較少,細(xì)度相近,集中表現(xiàn)在21?m,粗毛細(xì)度值相差較大,最粗的是阿勒泰羊毛,最細(xì)的是巴什拜羊毛。和田羊的兩型毛細(xì)度為42.96?m;和田羊毛的毛叢長度長達(dá)288.6mm,底絨長度長達(dá)110.99mm,遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)高于其他兩種羊毛,其中底絨長度約為其他兩種羊毛的兩倍,毛叢長度約為其他兩種羊毛的三倍;和田羊,阿勒泰羊和巴什拜羊的纖維白度主要集中在65%~70%之間,和田羊毛的光澤度最優(yōu),其次是阿勒泰羊毛,巴什拜羊毛的光澤度在三者之間較差。由于和田羊和巴什拜羊的毛纖維為白色,而阿勒泰羊毛自身帶有顏色,所以阿勒泰羊毛黃度值較大。從白度、光澤度以及黃度綜合分析得出,和田羊毛色度更優(yōu)。其次,研究和田手工地毯編織工藝,并實際操作。將不同品質(zhì)的羊毛纖維紡成紗線并將紗線手工編織成地毯。在編織前要事先將梁架固定好,其主要是為了實現(xiàn)經(jīng)緯紗的支撐和懸掛,整個編織過程是在梁架上進(jìn)行的。計算好地毯的道數(shù),將一定數(shù)量的經(jīng)紗固定在梁架上,然后按照事先設(shè)計好的紋樣將染好顏色的毛紗采用“森納”結(jié)扣的形式編織在經(jīng)紗上,期間進(jìn)行按壓、割絨等操作。編織好的地毯最后根據(jù)實際需要進(jìn)行修剪、涂膠等一系列后處理。這樣一塊手工地毯就編織完成了。最后,綜合分析和田手工地毯與其他羊毛地毯的差異,找出地毯與原料之間的關(guān)系,分析并驗證。研究結(jié)果表明:和田羊毛地毯的掉毛率和抗壓縮性能要遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)優(yōu)于阿勒泰羊毛地毯和巴什拜羊毛地毯,這主要是因為和田手工地毯采用的和田羊毛纖維長度較長。纖維的長度有利于降低地毯的掉毛率,提高地毯的抗壓縮性能。通過光澤感比較,和田羊毛地毯的光澤度更好,說明了和田羊毛纖維的表面更加光滑,鱗片更加均勻,平整。
[Abstract]:Hotan handmade carpet is made of local Hotan wool as carpet raw material. The forming of Hotan handmade carpet is from raw material purchase, sorting, cleaning, drying, spinning to weaving and finishing. Each process is very elegant. The unique style and exquisite craftsmanship of Hotan's handmade carpet have created its reputation at home and abroad and brought a lot of wealth to the local people. But in recent years. With the growing vanity of people in the face of interests, many businessmen gradually lose credibility. Most of the hand-made carpet in the market has long been unworthy of its name, and the selection is no longer pure Hotan wool. But added a large number of miscellaneous hair hair, and even, directly to the mainland machine woven carpet finished goods to the local sales, fake. This article will collect the wool to carry on the sorting, the cleaning, the carding first, as the carpet weaving raw material. Then the wool fiber type, the fineness. A series of physical indexes such as length were tested. The results showed that the wool fiber types of Altay sheep and Basheba sheep were mainly wool and coarse wool with a small amount of dry hair. There were no two types of wool in both of them. The main woolen and two-type wool were mainly woolen wool and the coarse wool content was 5.98. The fineness difference of wool between Hetian sheep, Altay sheep and Bashbah sheep is less and the fineness is similar. M, the fineness of coarse wool varies greatly, the roughest wool is Altay wool, and the finest one is Basheba wool. The two types of wool in Hotan sheep are 42.96? M; The length of woolen wool is 288.6 mm and the length of bottom wool is 110.99 mm, which is much higher than that of the other two kinds of wool, of which the length of bottom wool is about twice that of the other two kinds of wool. The length of the wool is about three times that of the other two kinds of wool. The fiber whiteness of Hetian sheep, Altay sheep and Bashbah sheep is mainly between 6570%, and the luster of Hetian wool is the best, followed by Altay wool. The luster of Bashbah wool is poor between the three. Because the wool fiber of Hotan sheep and Bashbah sheep is white, and Altay wool has its own color, the yellowness of Altay wool is higher. The comprehensive analysis of gloss and yellowness shows that the color of Hetian wool is better. Secondly, the weaving technology of hand-made carpet in Hetian is studied. The wool fiber of different quality is spun into yarn and the yarn is woven into carpet by hand. The beam frame should be fixed before weaving, which is mainly to realize the support and suspension of warp and weft yarn. The whole knitting process is carried out on the beam frame. The number of carpets is calculated and a certain number of warp yarns are fixed on the beams. Then according to the pre-designed pattern the dyed woolen yarn is woven on the warp yarn in the form of "Senna" knots, during which the pressing, cutting and other operations are carried out. Finally, the woven carpet is trimmed according to the actual needs. A series of post-treatment such as glue coating. Such a piece of hand-made carpet is finished. Finally, comprehensive analysis and field hand carpet and other wool carpet differences, to find out the relationship between carpet and raw materials. The results show that the wool loss rate and compression resistance of Hotan wool carpet are much better than that of Altay wool carpet and Bashbah wool carpet. This is mainly due to the longer length of Hotan wool fiber used in Hotan handmade carpet. The length of fiber is helpful to reduce the wool loss rate of carpet and improve the compression resistance of carpet. The better glossiness of Hotan wool carpet indicates that the surface of Hotan wool fiber is more smooth, and the scales are more uniform and smooth.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：新疆大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2017
【分類號】：TS106.76

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