基于茶油的抗衰老化妝品的研究開發(fā)
發(fā)布時間:2018-01-09 22:32
本文關(guān)鍵詞:基于茶油的抗衰老化妝品的研究開發(fā) 出處:《合肥工業(yè)大學(xué)》2017年碩士論文 論文類型:學(xué)位論文
【摘要】:隨著人們生活水平的提高,社會人口結(jié)構(gòu)變化,老齡化趨勢逐年上升,抗衰老化妝品受越來越多人歡迎。盡管醫(yī)學(xué)美容逐漸興起,以不破壞皮膚生理結(jié)構(gòu)的化妝品仍然是人們的主流抗衰老護(hù)膚方式。茶油在我國資源豐富,其含有的抗氧化活性功能是人們近年來研究的熱點,并且常被用來與橄欖油比較。在產(chǎn)品開發(fā)上,茶油目前在市場上仍以食用油為主,其保健功能沒有得到充分的重視與應(yīng)用,茶油在醫(yī)藥和化妝品方面也有著很大的開發(fā)潛力。本課題以市售茶油為研究對象,探究了其作為化妝品用基礎(chǔ)油的工藝,研究了其生理活性和對活性成分的滲透性能,為茶油在化妝品中的應(yīng)用提供技術(shù)支持,并開發(fā)出一種抗衰老潤膚油。主要研究結(jié)果如下:(1)對市售茶油的冬化處理進(jìn)行了工藝的探討,分析了處理前后茶油中的理化指標(biāo)、脂肪酸組成變化和活性成分組成。經(jīng)研究結(jié)果得到:茶油在4℃冬化24h,能達(dá)到較長的耐寒時間和較好的油脂分離。冬化后酸價、碘值下降,不飽和脂肪酸比之前增加了3.12%。總體來說,冬化提高了茶油的低溫穩(wěn)定性和透明度,達(dá)到了化妝品用油的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。(2)對茶油自身抗氧化性和其對化妝品中活性成分的經(jīng)皮促滲能力進(jìn)行了研究。茶油對DPPH·、·OH和O2-·的IC50分別為293,421和343 mg/mL,抗氧化性強(qiáng)于市售橄欖油。茶油對不同化妝品功效成分葛根素、2-氧-α-D-吡喃葡萄糖基抗壞血酸、α-熊果苷和積雪草苷的經(jīng)皮滲透均表現(xiàn)出較好的促進(jìn)作用,與不加促透劑相比,茶油的促滲倍數(shù)分別為2.78、2.81、3.11、3.70。茶油對脂水分配系數(shù)較高的活性物質(zhì)的經(jīng)皮滲透效果較好。(3)優(yōu)化得到抗衰老潤膚油的最佳配為:茶油58.2%、甜杏仁油25%、辛酸癸酸甘油三酯15%、茶樹精油0.8%、維生素E 0.5%,角鯊烯0.5%。該潤膚油符合國標(biāo)要求的理化和感官指標(biāo)。研究了該產(chǎn)品對小鼠皮膚光老化的抑制作用。與空白組小鼠相比,涂抹該產(chǎn)品顯著降低了光照組小鼠皮膚中的MDA含量,提高了SOD和CAT活性。說明以茶油為基礎(chǔ)油制得的該潤膚油產(chǎn)品,可以調(diào)節(jié)皮膚抗氧化酶的活力,減少自由基對皮膚的損傷,延緩皮膚衰老。在41%濕度,25℃下保濕率為90.32%。
[Abstract]:With the improvement of people's living standard, the change of social population structure, the aging trend is rising year by year, anti-aging cosmetics are more and more popular, although medical beauty is rising gradually. Cosmetics that do not destroy the physiological structure of the skin are still the mainstream anti-aging skin care mode. Tea oil is rich in resources in China, and its antioxidant activity is a hot research topic in recent years. And it is often used to compare with olive oil. In product development, tea oil is still mainly edible oil in the market, its health care function has not been fully paid attention to and applied. Tea oil also has great development potential in medicine and cosmetics. The physiological activity and permeability of tea oil to active components were studied in order to provide technical support for the application of tea oil in cosmetics. A kind of anti-aging moisturizing oil was developed. The main results are as follows: 1) the winter treatment of tea oil sold in the market was discussed, and the physicochemical indexes of tea oil before and after treatment were analyzed. The change of fatty acid composition and the composition of active components. The results showed that tea oil could achieve longer cold tolerance time and better oil separation at 4 鈩,
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