【摘要】：本文對目前所見的明代金銀發(fā)簪進(jìn)行了類型學(xué)分析研究,將金簪分為二十四型,銀簪分為十八型。共分為五期,第一期從洪武元年(1368年)至永樂十三年(1415年),發(fā)簪大多簪首樣式簡潔、簪身短小;第二期從永樂十四年(1416年)至正統(tǒng)三年(1438年),出現(xiàn)了新的紋飾,并且開始在簪首鑲嵌玉或?qū)毷?第三期從正統(tǒng)四年(1439年)至正德十五年(1520年),型式和數(shù)量都大量增多,鑲嵌玉和寶石的類型所占比例增加,鎏金銀簪開始出現(xiàn);第四期從正德十六年(1521年)至萬歷三年(1575年),金簪的類型減少,銀簪類型增加并開始出現(xiàn)鑲嵌玉或?qū)毷你y簪;第五期從萬歷四年(1576年)至崇禎十七年(1644年),發(fā)簪樣式最為豐富,鑲嵌玉或?qū)毷陌l(fā)簪占絕大多數(shù)。明代發(fā)簪的紋飾、質(zhì)料有明顯的等級,不同地區(qū)出土的發(fā)簪紋飾和工藝方面也表現(xiàn)出地域差別。明代前期發(fā)簪上的寶石大部分可能來自于南亞和東南亞,中晚期以后,朝廷開始派遣宦官前往孟密等地鎮(zhèn)守并主管開采收購寶石。也有一些外來珠寶商人來中國販賣寶石。成化年以后皇室對寶石的需求量大大增加。此后,嵌寶石發(fā)簪的類型和數(shù)量越來越多。受到宮廷奢侈風(fēng)氣的影響,加之商品經(jīng)濟(jì)繁榮發(fā)展,發(fā)簪中出現(xiàn)僭用寶石的現(xiàn)象,并且流行周期不斷縮短。另外,發(fā)簪中也有受到佛教、道教文化的影響而產(chǎn)生的樣式,其中,藏傳佛教的影響尤為明顯。
[Abstract]:This paper studies the typology of gold and silver hairpin seen in Ming Dynasty, and divides the gold hairpin into 24 type and the silver hairpin into 18 types. The first period is from the first year of Hongwu (1368) to the 13th year of Yongle (1415). Most hairpins have a simple style and a short hairpin, and the second period ranges from 14 years (1416) to 1438 years of orthodoxy. In the third period, from four years of orthodoxy (1439) to 15 years of Zhengde (1520), the types and quantity of jade and gemstones increased, the proportion of jade and gemstones increased, and gold and silver hairpin began to appear. In the fourth period, from 16 years of Zhengde (1521) to three years of Wanli (1575), the type of gold hairpin decreased, and the type of silver hairpin increased and began to appear. The fifth period from four years of Wanli (1576) to Chongzhen seventeen years (1644), hairpin style is the most abundant, jade or gem mosaic hairpin accounted for the vast majority. The pattern of hairpin in Ming Dynasty had obvious grade of material, and there were also regional differences in the pattern and technology of hairpin unearthed in different areas. Most of the gems on the hairpin in the early Ming Dynasty probably came from South and Southeast Asia. After the middle and late period, the court began to send eunuchs to Mengmi and other places to guard and take charge of mining and purchasing precious stones. There are also some foreign jewelers who come to China to sell precious stones. The royal family's demand for precious stones increased greatly after the age of formation. Since then, the type and number of gemstone hairpins have become more and more. Influenced by the luxury of the court, and the prosperity of commodity economy, the phenomenon of arroganism appeared in hairpin, and the period of popularity was shortened. In addition, the hairpin is also influenced by Buddhism and Taoism culture, especially Tibetan Buddhism.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：蘭州大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2016
【分類號】：K876.43
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本文編號：2166557