本文選題：苗族　切入點：侗族　出處：《中央民族大學(xué)》2010年博士論文　論文類型：學(xué)位論文

【摘要】： 民族服飾是一個民族物質(zhì)文化與精神文化相結(jié)合的產(chǎn)物。它像一面鏡子,能夠折射出一個民族的歷史、文化、經(jīng)濟、宗教、審美、工藝、習(xí)俗等,是民族文化的重要組成部分。 苗族、侗族女性服飾是中國少數(shù)民族服飾百花園中的奇葩,具有豐富的款式、精美的刺繡、耀眼的銀飾、高超的技藝及其所蘊含的精神內(nèi)容。苗族和侗族具有各自的民族傳統(tǒng)文化,因而兩者的女性服飾具有各自的特征。同時,相似的生產(chǎn)生活方式以及居住地的地緣相近使得兩者的女性服飾又存在著一定的相似性。因此,對苗族、侗族女性服飾文化進(jìn)行比較研究,無論是從民族學(xué)的學(xué)科視角還是從服飾學(xué)專業(yè)的角度來看,都具有一定的學(xué)術(shù)意義。 隨著信息時代的到來,交通因素、交流因素、生活方式因素等原因使得苗族、侗族女性服飾有著趨同的發(fā)展趨向。此外,經(jīng)濟利益的驅(qū)動以及生活狀態(tài)的改變,使得苗族、侗族女性服飾實物的流失現(xiàn)象非常嚴(yán)重,而紡紗、織布、染布、刺繡等一系列技藝面臨著失傳的危險。因此,對苗族、侗族女性服飾文化的研究也具有一定的現(xiàn)實意義。 本文將田野調(diào)查研究與文獻(xiàn)資料研究方法相結(jié)合。筆者的田野調(diào)查主要集中在苗族、侗族聚居的貴州省黔東南苗族侗族自治州,通過實地調(diào)查得到了大量的一手資料,包括訪談紀(jì)錄、照片與錄像,為本文寫作打下了較為堅實的資料基礎(chǔ)。同時,對歷史文獻(xiàn)資料進(jìn)行梳理,為深入的分析與研究該問題提供了保障。 本論文結(jié)合民族學(xué)與服飾學(xué)的相關(guān)理論,以文化變遷與文化比較為理論依據(jù),對苗族、侗族女性的服飾實物、穿著者、制作者、穿著習(xí)俗、穿著狀態(tài)等方面進(jìn)行了細(xì)致的梳理。本文主要由以下幾個問題組成：一、苗族、侗族女性的服裝比較,從主體服飾和輔助服飾兩個方面(包括上衣、下衣、頭帕、胸兜、花帶、圍裙、背帶、條裙、綁腿等)對苗族、侗族女性服裝進(jìn)行比較；二、苗族、侗族女性首飾與佩飾,將身體各部位所佩戴的首飾和盛裝上的銀飾兩個方面進(jìn)行比較,分析苗族、侗族首飾與佩飾的實用價值、裝飾審美價值與社會價值,同時將二者的頭飾、頸飾、胸飾和背飾、手飾以及佩飾進(jìn)行比較；三、服飾紋樣和刺繡圖案,將苗族、侗族女性服飾的紋樣類型、刺繡技法和刺繡圖案的布局、造型、情景兩個方面進(jìn)行比較；四、服飾文化與審美比較,從苗族、侗族女性文化與服飾(包括苗族、侗族女性性格特征比較,苗族、侗族女性的愛美、愛好和愛年輕,苗族、侗族女性戀愛、婚姻、育兒與服飾),苗族、侗族女性服飾的文化意蘊(如神話傳說的烙印、圖騰崇拜的影響、本民族文化的體現(xiàn)),苗族、侗族女性服飾的作用、風(fēng)俗、禁忌與穿著習(xí)慣,苗族、侗族女性服飾的審美(主要是造型、色彩、風(fēng)格、意蘊)四個方面進(jìn)行比較；五、苗族、侗族女性服飾的傳承現(xiàn)狀,從苗族、侗族女性服飾傳承的影響因素(經(jīng)濟因素、文化交流因素、生活方式因素)、傳承的現(xiàn)狀(包括綜述部分和對雷山縣西江苗寨的個案分析)以及少數(shù)民族傳統(tǒng)服飾傳承現(xiàn)狀與出路三個方面進(jìn)行論述,并在最后提出了少數(shù)民族傳統(tǒng)服飾保護(hù)、發(fā)展和傳承的設(shè)想。 本文的著重探討了苗族、侗族女性服飾二者的相似性、差異性以及各自的成因,由此進(jìn)一步探討以苗族、侗族女性服飾以及中國少數(shù)民族服飾文化的保護(hù)、傳承、研究、發(fā)展的問題。
[Abstract]:National costume is the product of the combination of material and spiritual culture of a nation. It reflects a nation's history, culture, economy, religion, aesthetics, craft, custom and so on, which is an important part of national culture.
Miao, Dong women's clothing is a wonderful China ethnic costumes in the garden, with rich style, exquisite embroidery, bright silver, superb skill and spirit of the content contained. Miao nationality and Dong nationality has its own national traditional culture, so the female clothing both have their respective characteristics. At the same time, similar the production life style and the same geographic environment makes their female clothes and there is a certain similarity. Therefore, the Miao, Dong women's clothing culture comparative study, both from the visual angle of Ethnology discipline or from the clothing professional point of view, have a certain academic significance.
With the advent of the information age, traffic factors, communication factors, lifestyle factors such as causes of Miao, Dong female costume has a trend of convergence development. In addition, driven by economic interests and lifestyle changes, the Miao, Dong female clothing physical flow loss phenomenon is very serious, and spinning, weaving, dyeing, embroidery a series of art is facing the danger of extinction. Therefore, the study of Dong Miao, women's clothing culture also has certain practical significance.
This paper combines field research and literature research methods. The author's fieldwork mainly concentrated in Miao, Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture of Guizhou province Dong communities, through on-the-spot investigation to get a lot of first-hand information, including interviews, photos and videos, the data of a solid foundation for this thesis. At the same time, reviews the history of literature, provides a guarantee for the in-depth analysis and research of the problem.
This paper combined with the theory of Ethnology and learn to dress, cultural change and cultural comparison as the theoretical basis of the Miao, Dong women kind of clothing, wearing, wearing custom dress makers, state and other aspects of the detailed analysis. This paper consists of the following components: a problem, Miao, Dong female comparison the clothing, from the two aspects of the main and auxiliary clothing apparel (including shirts, clothing, headband, chest pockets, with flowers, aprons, straps, skirts, leggings etc.) of the Miao, Dong women's clothing were compared; two, Miao, Dong women jewelry and ornaments, compares the two aspects to wear the various parts of the body containing the silver jewelry and jewelry and ornaments of Miao and Dong analysis, practical value, aesthetic value and social value, and the two headdress, neckwear, pectoral and dorsal ornaments, jewelry and accessories are compared; three, clothing Decorative patterns and embroidery patterns, the Miao, Dong women dress pattern types, embroidery techniques and embroidery pattern layout, modeling, comparing two aspects of situation; four, costume culture and aesthetic comparison, from the Miao, Dong women culture and clothing (including Miao, Dong female character, Miao, Dong women beauty, love and love the young, Miao, Dong women love, marriage, parenting and clothing), Miao, Dong cultural connotation of women's apparel (reflected the national culture as the myths and legends of the brand influence, totem worship, Miao, Dong) women's clothing, customs, taboos and wearing habits, Miao the women's clothing aesthetic (mainly the shape, color, style, meaning) are compared in four aspects; five, Miao, Dong inheritance situation of women's apparel from Miao, Dong women's clothing factors (economic factor, cultural heritage Communication factors, lifestyle factors), inheritance status (including the review and analysis of Leishan Xijiang Miaozhai case) and status quo of the inheritance of ethnic traditional costumes in three aspects, and finally puts forward the protection of traditional ethnic costumes, idea of development and inheritance.
This article focuses on the similarities, differences and causes of the two women's costumes of Miao nationality and Dong nationality, so as to further explore the protection, inheritance, research and development of Miao nationality, Dong minority female costumes and Chinese minority dress culture.

【學(xué)位授予單位】：中央民族大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級別】：博士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2010
【分類號】：K892.23

【引證文獻(xiàn)】

相關(guān)期刊論文 前3條

1 劉一萍;吳曉麗;吳大洋;;貴州省織金縣歪梳苗蠟染工藝[J];紡織學(xué)報;2012年05期

2 曹瑩;趙俐;;恩施侗族服飾審美與開發(fā)應(yīng)用淺析[J];國際紡織導(dǎo)報;2014年08期

3 徐秀紅;;苗族侗族服飾刺繡的文化人類學(xué)闡釋——以廣西融水和三江地區(qū)的苗族侗族為例[J];南寧職業(yè)技術(shù)學(xué)院學(xué)報;2013年04期

相關(guān)博士學(xué)位論文 前1條

1 亓延;近代山東服飾研究[D];江南大學(xué);2012年

相關(guān)碩士學(xué)位論文 前2條

1 李曉曼;鄂倫春、鄂溫克、達(dá)斡爾族獸皮、獸骨裝飾藝術(shù)研究[D];內(nèi)蒙古農(nóng)業(yè)大學(xué);2013年

2 蘇曉紅;苗族民間文學(xué)作品的女性形象研究[D];貴州民族大學(xué);2012年

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本文編號：1596785