本文選題：蘇繡 + 服飾品繡�。� 參考：《江南大學(xué)》2012年碩士論文

【摘要】：本文針對(duì)近代民間服飾品中的蘇繡進(jìn)行了研究分析。論文的研究對(duì)象主要為三類：一是1976-2011年《考古》，1956-2011年《文物》雜志中有關(guān)刺繡的考古報(bào)告，以及前人的研究成果。二是江南大學(xué)民間服飾傳習(xí)館及南通莊錦云工作室搜集的近代民間蘇繡實(shí)物；三是莊錦云工作室工作日志及在調(diào)研學(xué)習(xí)過程中，對(duì)張蕾、劉云等人的采訪記錄。 首先，通過整理考古報(bào)告，對(duì)刺繡針法的產(chǎn)生和發(fā)展進(jìn)行了系統(tǒng)的梳理，理清了其發(fā)展脈絡(luò)。即針法發(fā)展經(jīng)歷了形成期、分離期、分化期，近代刺繡是傳統(tǒng)刺繡發(fā)展的結(jié)果，具有傳承性；而蘇繡是刺繡發(fā)展分化的結(jié)果，具有時(shí)代性、歷史性，明確了近代蘇繡的研究價(jià)值。 然后，以地域與風(fēng)格相結(jié)合的方式，明確界定了近代民間服飾中的蘇繡，篩選符合選題的研究對(duì)象。在此基礎(chǔ)上，對(duì)這批實(shí)物整理歸檔，觀測記錄。分品類從刺繡位置、構(gòu)圖特點(diǎn)、紋樣題材、色彩搭配等方面對(duì)近代民間服飾中的蘇繡進(jìn)行系統(tǒng)研究，從宏觀、整體的角度研究民間服飾中蘇繡的特色。 最后，將研究對(duì)象進(jìn)一步細(xì)化到蘇繡針法。首先通過針法采集與實(shí)踐，學(xué)習(xí)民間服飾品中的蘇繡針法并繪制針法圖，分析、記錄每件服飾的針法特點(diǎn)。并提煉出近代民間服飾中常用的蘇繡針法，進(jìn)行分類。在此基礎(chǔ)上，結(jié)合針法圖細(xì)致解析每種針法的運(yùn)針步驟及運(yùn)用范圍，總結(jié)近代服飾品中蘇繡針法的特色，形成了比較完整的民間服飾品針法體系。同時(shí)，對(duì)服飾品針法與畫繡針法進(jìn)行比較研究，進(jìn)一步明晰服飾品針法的特點(diǎn)，突出針法體系的針對(duì)性。并從刺繡尤其是針法技藝的角度，，探討蘇繡與刺繡者情感的關(guān)系。 本文以近代民間服飾中的蘇繡針法為研究對(duì)象，從傳統(tǒng)技藝的角度進(jìn)行了深入的研究。論文依托大量的近代民間服飾品實(shí)物及文史材料，通過實(shí)踐學(xué)習(xí)和調(diào)查采訪等方法進(jìn)行考證、分析、歸納，并通過統(tǒng)計(jì)等方法總結(jié)其在工藝、色彩方面的普遍規(guī)律性。課題研究對(duì)于保護(hù)和傳承蘇繡非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)具有重要的文化價(jià)值和學(xué)術(shù)價(jià)值。
[Abstract]:This article has carried on the research and analysis to the Su embroidery in the modern folk clothing ornament. The main research objects of this paper are as follows: the first is the archaeological report on embroidery in the magazine of Archaeology from 1976 to 2011 and the previous research results. The other is the modern folk embroidery collected by Jiangnan University Folk dress Museum and Nantong Zhuang Jinyun Studios, and the third is the working log of Zhuang Jinyun Studio and the interview records of Zhang Lei, Liu Yun and others in the course of investigation and study. First of all, through sorting out the archaeological report, the emergence and development of embroidery needlework is systematically combed, and its development context is clarified. That is, the development of acupuncture has experienced a period of formation, separation, differentiation, modern embroidery is the result of the development of traditional embroidery, with inheritance, while Suzhou embroidery is the result of embroidery development and differentiation, with the times, historical, It clarifies the research value of modern Su embroidery. Then, by the combination of region and style, the Suzhou embroidery in modern folk dress is clearly defined, and the research object that fits the topic is selected. On this basis, this batch of physical material filing, observation records. This paper systematically studies the Suzhou embroidery in modern folk dress from the aspects of embroidery position, composition characteristics, pattern theme and color collocation, and studies the characteristics of Suzhou embroidery in folk dress from the macro and overall angle. Finally, the object of study was further refined to Su embroidery needle method. Firstly, through the collection and practice of needling, we learn the needle-needling method of Suzhou embroidery in folk clothing ornaments and draw the needlework diagram, analyze and record the needle-like characteristics of each dress. And refined the modern folk dress in the common use of embroidery needle, classification. On this basis, combined with the needlework diagram to analyze the steps and application scope of each needling method, the characteristics of the Su embroidery needling method in modern clothing ornaments are summarized, and a relatively complete needling system of folk clothing ornaments is formed. At the same time, the article makes a comparative study on the needling method of clothing ornaments and the needling method of drawing embroidery, and further clarifies the characteristics of the needling method of clothing ornaments and highlights the pertinence of the needling system. From the angle of embroidery, especially needling technique, the relationship between Suzhou embroidery and embroidery's emotion is discussed. In this paper, the Suzhou embroidery Needle in Modern Folk dress as the research object, from the point of view of traditional techniques, in-depth research. Relying on a large number of modern folk clothing ornaments and literature and history materials, through practice study and investigation and interview methods for textual research, analysis, induction, and through statistical methods to sum up its technology, color aspects of the general regularity. The research has important cultural value and academic value for protecting and inheriting the intangible cultural heritage of Suzhou embroidery.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：江南大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2012
【分類號(hào)】：J523.6

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本文編號(hào)：1833922