云南新平花腰傣服飾的裝飾藝術(shù)研究
發(fā)布時(shí)間：2019-02-15 20:50
【摘要】：居住在云南新平彝族傣族自治縣的傣族,其服飾別具特色,尤其是腰部的裝飾繁復(fù)瑰麗,被其它民族稱(chēng)為“花腰傣”；他們是云南傣族的支系之一,自身又分為傣雅、傣灑、傣卡三個(gè)支系；與西雙版納和德宏的傣族不同,他們篤信原始宗教,但對(duì)其服飾各個(gè)要素和各個(gè)支系的異同沒(méi)有文字上相關(guān)的記錄,卻以口耳相傳、技藝相習(xí)、以不同的材質(zhì)和工藝手段等形式,傳承著自己的族規(guī)祖訓(xùn),吸收著外族的優(yōu)秀文化。 本論文以花腰傣服飾為研究對(duì)象,通過(guò)文獻(xiàn)搜集、實(shí)地調(diào)研、列表對(duì)比等多種研究方法,運(yùn)用裝飾藝術(shù)理論,結(jié)合民族學(xué)、民俗學(xué)、美學(xué)等相關(guān)理論,對(duì)新平花腰傣三個(gè)支系服飾的制作工藝、服裝款型、色彩配置、圖案構(gòu)成、裝飾品,以及服飾在人生禮儀的不同表征列項(xiàng)對(duì)比。通過(guò)表格對(duì)三個(gè)支系在不同類(lèi)型和時(shí)期的服飾要素中所體現(xiàn)的裝飾藝術(shù)的手法、題材、樣式和風(fēng)格等方面及其文化內(nèi)涵進(jìn)行歸納總結(jié),是本文力圖凸現(xiàn)的特色。 此外,論文從審美意識(shí)、審美表現(xiàn)及審美文化三方面對(duì)花腰傣服飾進(jìn)行分析,從影響和制約花腰傣服飾藝術(shù)的民族文化心理的表現(xiàn)中,歸納出花腰傣服飾藝術(shù)的融合精湛技藝和非凡想象的工藝美、承載著民族歷史文化的古樸美、具有繁縟繡繢和高貴華麗的裝飾美、兼?zhèn)渚呦笤煨秃统橄笤煨偷囊庀竺浪膫�(gè)審美特征,總結(jié)出花腰傣服飾中所含有的審美文化象征及涵義。對(duì)花腰傣服飾藝術(shù)的傳承與在現(xiàn)代藝術(shù)中的應(yīng)用,進(jìn)行了思考和探索,并嘗試從中提取具體民族藝術(shù)元素進(jìn)行了實(shí)例設(shè)計(jì)。 從本論文的研究和分析來(lái)看,對(duì)花腰傣服飾中的裝飾藝術(shù)研究除了對(duì)其圖形結(jié)構(gòu)、形式法則、風(fēng)格類(lèi)型等視覺(jué)形式方面的研究外,還需要以民族文化闡釋和審美對(duì)其裝飾美學(xué)的特性和藝術(shù)價(jià)值等方面進(jìn)行理論性的研究。首先,本論文對(duì)花腰傣女性服飾藝術(shù)進(jìn)行一個(gè)整合性研究,對(duì)花腰傣服飾藝術(shù)及裝飾文化形成整體性認(rèn)識(shí)。然后,從藝術(shù)角度進(jìn)行分析,把服飾形態(tài)的結(jié)構(gòu)與人的認(rèn)知及情感結(jié)構(gòu)有機(jī)的結(jié)合并表現(xiàn)出來(lái),其中蘊(yùn)涵了民族及地域文化中豐富的文化意蘊(yùn)；從文化闡釋角度進(jìn)行探討,有助于認(rèn)識(shí)其服飾審美文化系統(tǒng)的構(gòu)成及其獨(dú)有的文化價(jià)值,并以這豐厚的文化底蘊(yùn)來(lái)進(jìn)行傳承、創(chuàng)新。
[Abstract]:The Dai people living in Xinping Yi Dai Autonomous County in Yunnan Province have distinctive costumes, especially the adornment of the waist, which is called "Huayao Dai" by other ethnic groups. They are one of the branches of Dai nationality in Yunnan, and they are also divided into three branches: Dai Ya, Dai sa and Dai Ka. Unlike the Dai people in Xishuangbanna and Dehong, they believe in primitive religions, but they have no written records of the similarities and differences between the various elements and branches of their costumes. In the form of different material and craft means, inherits own clan rules and regulations, absorbs the foreign nationality outstanding culture. This paper takes Huayao Dai dress as the research object, through literature collection, field investigation, list comparison and other research methods, using decorative art theory, combined with ethnology, folklore, aesthetics and other related theories. This paper makes a comparison of the production technology, the style, the coloring, the pattern, the adornment, and the different representation of the dress in the life etiquette of the three branches of Xinping Huayao Dai. This paper summarizes the decorative art techniques, themes, styles, styles and cultural connotations of the three branches in the different types and periods of clothing elements through tables, which is the characteristic of this paper. In addition, the thesis analyzes the Huayao Dai costumes from the aspects of aesthetic consciousness, aesthetic expression and aesthetic culture, and analyzes the expression of the national cultural psychology that influences and restricts the art of Huayao Dai costume. Summing up the fusion of exquisite craftsmanship and extraordinary imaginative craftsmanship of Huayao Dai costume art, bearing the simple beauty of the history and culture of the nation, with elaborate embroidery and magnificent decorative beauty, The aesthetic features of image beauty of figurative modeling and abstract modeling are combined, and the aesthetic cultural symbols and meanings contained in Huayao Dai clothing are summarized. This paper discusses the inheritance and application of Huayao Dai costume art in modern art, and tries to extract the elements of national art from it for example design. According to the research and analysis of this thesis, the research on decorative art in Huayao Dai clothing is not only the research on its graphic structure, formal rules, style types and other visual forms, but also the research on the decorative art of Huayao Dai clothing. It is also necessary to theoretically study the characteristics and artistic value of decorative aesthetics in terms of national cultural interpretation and aesthetic appreciation. First of all, this paper carries on a comprehensive research on the dress art of Huayao Dai women, and forms a holistic understanding of the dress art and decorative culture of Huayao Dai. Then, from the angle of art, it combines the structure of dress form with the cognitive and emotional structure of people, which contains rich cultural implication in national and regional culture. From the perspective of cultural interpretation, it is helpful to understand the composition of its costume aesthetic culture system and its unique cultural value, and to inherit and innovate with this rich cultural heritage.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：昆明理工大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2009
【分類(lèi)號(hào)】：J523.5
本文編號(hào)：2423686
[Abstract]:The Dai people living in Xinping Yi Dai Autonomous County in Yunnan Province have distinctive costumes, especially the adornment of the waist, which is called "Huayao Dai" by other ethnic groups. They are one of the branches of Dai nationality in Yunnan, and they are also divided into three branches: Dai Ya, Dai sa and Dai Ka. Unlike the Dai people in Xishuangbanna and Dehong, they believe in primitive religions, but they have no written records of the similarities and differences between the various elements and branches of their costumes. In the form of different material and craft means, inherits own clan rules and regulations, absorbs the foreign nationality outstanding culture. This paper takes Huayao Dai dress as the research object, through literature collection, field investigation, list comparison and other research methods, using decorative art theory, combined with ethnology, folklore, aesthetics and other related theories. This paper makes a comparison of the production technology, the style, the coloring, the pattern, the adornment, and the different representation of the dress in the life etiquette of the three branches of Xinping Huayao Dai. This paper summarizes the decorative art techniques, themes, styles, styles and cultural connotations of the three branches in the different types and periods of clothing elements through tables, which is the characteristic of this paper. In addition, the thesis analyzes the Huayao Dai costumes from the aspects of aesthetic consciousness, aesthetic expression and aesthetic culture, and analyzes the expression of the national cultural psychology that influences and restricts the art of Huayao Dai costume. Summing up the fusion of exquisite craftsmanship and extraordinary imaginative craftsmanship of Huayao Dai costume art, bearing the simple beauty of the history and culture of the nation, with elaborate embroidery and magnificent decorative beauty, The aesthetic features of image beauty of figurative modeling and abstract modeling are combined, and the aesthetic cultural symbols and meanings contained in Huayao Dai clothing are summarized. This paper discusses the inheritance and application of Huayao Dai costume art in modern art, and tries to extract the elements of national art from it for example design. According to the research and analysis of this thesis, the research on decorative art in Huayao Dai clothing is not only the research on its graphic structure, formal rules, style types and other visual forms, but also the research on the decorative art of Huayao Dai clothing. It is also necessary to theoretically study the characteristics and artistic value of decorative aesthetics in terms of national cultural interpretation and aesthetic appreciation. First of all, this paper carries on a comprehensive research on the dress art of Huayao Dai women, and forms a holistic understanding of the dress art and decorative culture of Huayao Dai. Then, from the angle of art, it combines the structure of dress form with the cognitive and emotional structure of people, which contains rich cultural implication in national and regional culture. From the perspective of cultural interpretation, it is helpful to understand the composition of its costume aesthetic culture system and its unique cultural value, and to inherit and innovate with this rich cultural heritage.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：昆明理工大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2009
【分類(lèi)號(hào)】：J523.5
【參考文獻(xiàn)】
相關(guān)期刊論文 前2條
1 王聲躍,嚴(yán)舒紅;云南少數(shù)民族服飾景觀地域特征探析[J];人文地理;2003年03期
2 呂衛(wèi)平;中國(guó)尚黑美學(xué)探微[J];裝飾;2004年05期
，本文編號(hào)：2423686
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