【摘要】：本文對(duì)民國(guó)時(shí)期湘西與江南地區(qū)民間女裝裝飾形式進(jìn)行了比較研究，并分析了兩者之間諸多差異的形成原因。本文的研究依據(jù)主要為兩大類：一是文史與文獻(xiàn)記載等文獻(xiàn)資料，包括湘西自治州檔案館、保靖縣檔案館1911-1949年的文史資料及相關(guān)的前人研究成果；二是實(shí)物資料，包括湘西自治州博物館、江南大學(xué)民間服飾傳習(xí)館及南通莊錦云工作室收藏的民國(guó)時(shí)期女裝實(shí)物。通過文獻(xiàn)研究法、實(shí)物分析法與圖文互證法，梳理了民國(guó)時(shí)期兩地民間女裝的基本形制及裝飾形式，并在此基礎(chǔ)上對(duì)兩者進(jìn)行對(duì)比，總結(jié)出它們?cè)谘b飾形式上的相似與相異之處，并分析其成因。 湘西與江南分別位于長(zhǎng)江流域的中游與下游，因兩地在自然環(huán)境和社會(huì)歷史環(huán)境上的諸多差異，導(dǎo)致了民國(guó)時(shí)期兩地民間女裝之間具有相似與相異之處：第一，民國(guó)時(shí)期兩地民間女裝在總體上呈現(xiàn)出中華傳統(tǒng)服飾的基本特點(diǎn)，具有一定相似性；第二，兩地的部分民間女裝是屬于具有各自稻作服飾文化特色的典型，具有一定的相似與相異性；第三，在服飾文明的發(fā)展演變及傳播中，湘西是屬于具有“封閉性”特征的典型，相對(duì)良好、穩(wěn)定地傳承了具有當(dāng)?shù)乇就恋赜蚣懊褡逄厣姆�，而江南是屬于具有“開放性”特征的典型，在近代因深受西方服飾文明的影響而衍生了新的服飾，所以兩地民間女裝之間具有一定相異性。首先，民間服飾是指廣泛被平民在日常生活中穿著使用的服飾，具有很強(qiáng)的傳承性和地域性，不同區(qū)域間的民間服飾會(huì)表現(xiàn)出明顯的“時(shí)間差”與“地方差”；其次，服裝裝飾形式往往運(yùn)用于服裝的表層，一般通過視覺就能直接感知到它的存在，而女裝又是屬于服裝裝飾形式高度集中的一個(gè)類別。所以，本課題選取了具有典型代表性與可比性的湘西與江南地區(qū)作為研究地域，選擇了兩地的民間女裝裝飾形式作為研究?jī)?nèi)容，是關(guān)于兩地民間女裝裝飾形式之間“時(shí)間差”與“地方差”的研究。 本文首先通過文獻(xiàn)資料與實(shí)物資料的研究分析，分別對(duì)兩地民間女裝的基本形制及裝飾形式進(jìn)行了分析概述，從四個(gè)方面列舉出民國(guó)時(shí)期湘西與江南地區(qū)民間女裝在裝飾形式上的異同點(diǎn)：第一，在刺繡的色彩、紋樣及其精神內(nèi)涵等方面；第二，在鑲、滾及嵌等裝飾工藝的運(yùn)用方式、材料及裝飾效果方面；第三，在配飾的品種、材質(zhì)、外形特征及精神內(nèi)涵方面；第四，在同時(shí)體現(xiàn)了服裝的美觀性與適用性的裝飾形式方面。最后，通過本文之前對(duì)民國(guó)兩地民間女裝裝飾形式異同點(diǎn)的比較研究，分析概括其形成的原因主要有兩方面，其中主要包括了當(dāng)?shù)氐淖匀画h(huán)境因素和社會(huì)環(huán)境因素。自然環(huán)境因素包括了地理環(huán)境、交通條件、氣候風(fēng)土及農(nóng)業(yè)生產(chǎn)等因素，社會(huì)環(huán)境則包括了政治因素、經(jīng)濟(jì)基礎(chǔ)、服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)的發(fā)展?fàn)顩r、宗教信仰及文化教育等因素。 本文從研究服裝現(xiàn)象為出發(fā)點(diǎn)，以總結(jié)現(xiàn)象分析成因?yàn)榉椒�，以探究地域服飾發(fā)展演變規(guī)律為目的，以民國(guó)時(shí)期湘西與江南兩地民間女裝的裝飾形式為研究對(duì)象，歸納總結(jié)它們?cè)谘b飾形式上的差異，，并分析其成因。此研究揭示了服飾發(fā)展演變規(guī)律中地域特征與服飾形態(tài)之間的關(guān)系，即服飾發(fā)展的“地方差”；以及在一定歷史階段內(nèi)不同區(qū)域間服飾文明的傳播與服飾發(fā)展演變之間的關(guān)系，即服飾發(fā)展的“時(shí)代差”。是通過分析事物外部現(xiàn)象，探索內(nèi)部發(fā)展規(guī)律的研究，具有積極的學(xué)術(shù)價(jià)值。其次，該課題的研究也是對(duì)中國(guó)傳統(tǒng)服飾文化的探索與發(fā)掘，通過對(duì)服飾發(fā)展規(guī)律的探索與服飾文化的研究，可以對(duì)我國(guó)傳統(tǒng)服飾非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)進(jìn)行有效的保護(hù)與傳承，具有一定的現(xiàn)實(shí)意義。
[Abstract]:This paper makes a comparative study of the decorative forms of folk women's clothes in Xiangxi and Jiangnan during the period of the Republic of China, and analyzes the reasons for the differences between them. Materials and related predecessors'research results; second, material materials, including Xiangxi Autonomous Prefecture Museum, Jiangnan University and Nantong Zhuang Jinyun studio collection of women's wear in the Republic of China period. Through literature research, material analysis method and mutual authentication method, combed the basic form and decoration of women's wear in the Republic of China period. Form, and on this basis to compare the two, summed up their similarities and differences in the form of decoration, and analyze its causes.
Xiangxi and Jiangnan are located in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River Valley respectively. Due to the differences in natural environment and social and historical environment, there were similarities and differences between the two places in the period of the Republic of China. Firstly, the folk women's clothes in the two places presented the basic characteristics of Chinese traditional clothing in general and possessed one. Secondly, some of the folk women's clothes in the two places are typical of their own rice costume culture, with certain similarities and differences; thirdly, in the evolution and dissemination of costume civilization, western Hunan is a typical of "closed" characteristics, relatively good, stable inheritance of the local region. And the national characteristics of clothing, and Jiangnan is a typical "open" characteristics, in modern times because of the impact of Western costume civilization and derived new clothing, so there is a certain degree of difference between the two places. First of all, folk clothing is widely used in the daily life of civilians wearing clothing, has a strong. Inheritance and regionalism, folk clothing between different regions will show obvious "time difference" and "local difference"; secondly, clothing decoration forms are often used in the surface of clothing, generally through the visual perception of its existence, and women's clothing is a highly concentrated form of clothing decoration category. In this paper, the typical representative and comparable regions of Xiangxi and Jiangnan are selected as the research areas, and the folk women's wear decoration forms of the two places are selected as the research contents. It is about the "time difference" and "place difference" between the two places.
Firstly, through the research and analysis of literature and material materials, this paper analyzes and summarizes the basic forms and decorative forms of folk women's clothing in the two places, and lists the similarities and differences in decorative forms of folk women's clothing in Xiangxi and Jiangnan during the period of the Republic of China from four aspects: first, the colors, patterns and their spiritual connotations of embroidery. Secondly, in the use of inlaying, rolling and inlaying decorative techniques, materials and decorative effects; thirdly, in the variety of accessories, materials, shape characteristics and spiritual connotation; fourthly, in the same time reflects the aesthetic and applicability of clothing decorative forms. Finally, through this paper before the two places of the Republic of China folk women's clothing decorative form. A comparative study of the similarities and differences between the two types of factors, analysis and summary of the main reasons for its formation are two aspects, including the local natural environmental factors and social environmental factors. Development, religious belief, culture and education.
In this paper, starting from the study of clothing phenomena, taking the analysis of the causes of the phenomenon as a method to explore the evolution of regional clothing as a goal, taking the decorative forms of folk women's clothing in Xiangxi and Jiangnan during the period of the Republic of China as the research object, summed up their differences in decorative forms, and analyzed the causes. The relationship between regional characteristics and dress patterns in the evolution of the law of development, that is, the "local difference" in dress development, and the relationship between the spread of dress civilization and the evolution of dress development in different regions in a certain historical stage, that is, the "time difference" in dress development, is the study of the internal development law by analyzing the external phenomena of things. Secondly, the research of this subject is also the exploration and exploration of Chinese traditional dress culture. Through the exploration of dress development law and the study of dress culture, we can effectively protect and inherit the intangible cultural heritage of Chinese traditional dress, which has certain practical significance.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：江南大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級(jí)別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2013
【分類號(hào)】：TS941.12

【參考文獻(xiàn)】

相關(guān)期刊論文 前10條

1 程乃珊;上海灘的娘姨[J];文史博覽;2005年01期

2 許凡;吳秋英;;西南少數(shù)民族服飾紋樣的精神顯現(xiàn)[J];紡織學(xué)報(bào);2007年10期

3 劉長(zhǎng)生;簡(jiǎn)玉峰;;“大湘西”旅游客源結(jié)構(gòu)特征的調(diào)查研究分析[J];桂林旅游高等�？茖W(xué)校學(xué)報(bào);2006年02期

4 宋婉萍;;服裝配飾初探[J];大眾文藝;2012年13期

5 單強(qiáng);近代江南鄉(xiāng)鎮(zhèn)市場(chǎng)研究[J];近代史研究;1998年06期

6 石宗仁;略述《中國(guó)苗族古歌》的歷史和文化[J];民族文學(xué)研究;1996年01期

7 楊蓓;肖弋;;湘西土家織錦——西蘭卡普紋樣研究[J];美術(shù);2012年04期

8 肖愛麗;楊小明;;近代滬蘇杭絲織業(yè)比較研究[J];絲綢;2011年05期

9 宋倩;張竟瓊;;蘇南水鄉(xiāng)婦女服飾的裝飾手段解析[J];武漢科技學(xué)院學(xué)報(bào);2008年09期

10 李芳;;淺談中國(guó)當(dāng)代刺繡產(chǎn)業(yè)所面臨的問題及發(fā)展趨勢(shì)[J];藝術(shù)與設(shè)計(jì)(理論);2007年02期

本文編號(hào)：2196370