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  本文選題：蘇南水鄉(xiāng)　切入點：婦女服飾　出處：《江南大學(xué)》2009年碩士論文　論文類型：學(xué)位論文

【摘要】： 本文針對蘇南水鄉(xiāng)婦女服飾的裝飾工藝進(jìn)行研究分析。論文的研究對象為兩個部分,一是服飾傳世品,包括江南大學(xué)民間服飾傳習(xí)館館藏的蘇南水鄉(xiāng)婦女服飾以及通過田野采風(fēng)獲得的蘇南水鄉(xiāng)婦女服飾傳世品及相關(guān)資訊;二是對于這些服飾的裝飾工藝,表現(xiàn)為對服飾傳世品進(jìn)行工藝分析以及通過田野采風(fēng),對u*直、勝浦等地民間服飾制作者的調(diào)查、采訪與觀摩。 本文首先對蘇南水鄉(xiāng)婦女服飾的形制、面料與色彩進(jìn)行分析,了解了當(dāng)?shù)貗D女的穿著習(xí)慣與服飾的造型、色彩特征,明確了水鄉(xiāng)婦女的特色服飾的產(chǎn)生與發(fā)展是代表農(nóng)業(yè)文明的“稻作文化”的體現(xiàn)。 通過實地考察與田野采風(fēng)的方式,對水鄉(xiāng)婦女服飾的鑲拼、滾邊、褶裥、納、繡、帶飾、紐襻等裝飾工藝進(jìn)行重點分析,對具體工藝步驟進(jìn)行記錄、分析與研究,記錄復(fù)原了服飾的制作過程,總結(jié)出其程式性與隨機(jī)性相結(jié)合,整料與零料的使用相結(jié)合的特色。 同時更深一步探討其文化內(nèi)涵,從服裝設(shè)計學(xué)、服裝結(jié)構(gòu)學(xué)及服飾的精神屬性等角度進(jìn)行了綜合分析,認(rèn)為水鄉(xiāng)婦女服飾的裝飾工藝在體現(xiàn)審美價值的同時也具有實用功能,既是美化服裝的基本手段,也是結(jié)構(gòu)造型的基本手段,是“美用一體”的設(shè)計理念的體現(xiàn)。 蘇南水鄉(xiāng)婦女服飾作為漢民間服飾的組成部分,其裝飾工藝是當(dāng)?shù)貗D女在“稻作文化”的生產(chǎn)方式與生活方式條件下不斷摸索與發(fā)展中形成的特色工藝,是勞動婦女智慧的體現(xiàn),也是當(dāng)?shù)孛袼孜幕缘姆从?其精髓值得傳承與發(fā)展。
[Abstract]:In this paper, the adornment technology of women's clothing in southern Jiangsu is studied and analyzed. The research object of this paper is two parts, one is the clothing handed down from generation to generation. Including the collection of women's clothing in Sunan Water Township at Jiangnan University Folk dress Museum, and the products and related information on women's clothing in Sunan Water Township obtained through field mining; second, the decorative techniques for these costumes. It shows as follows: through the field mining, the investigation, interview and observation of the folk dress makers such as u * Zhi, Shengpu and so on. This paper first analyzes the shape, fabric and color of the women's clothing in Sunan Water Township, and finds out the local women's dress habits and the shape and color characteristics of their clothing. It is clear that the appearance and development of the characteristic dress of the women in the water country is the embodiment of the rice culture which represents the agricultural civilization. Through the way of on-the-spot investigation and field mining, this paper focuses on the decorative techniques such as embellishment, rolling, pleating, knitting, embroidered, ribbon and loop, and records, analyzes and studies the concrete technological steps. The process of dress making is reinstated and the characteristics of the combination of program and randomness and the use of whole material and zero material are summarized. At the same time, it further discusses its cultural connotation, and makes a comprehensive analysis from the angles of clothing design, clothing structure and the spiritual attributes of clothing. It is concluded that the decorative technology of women's clothing in water country not only embodies the aesthetic value, but also has practical functions. It is not only the basic means of beautifying clothing, but also the basic means of structural modeling. As a part of Han folk dress, the decoration craft of women's clothing in southern Jiangsu is the characteristic craft that local women are constantly groping and developing under the conditions of "rice culture" production and life style. It is the embodiment of working women's wisdom and the reflection of local folklore culture, and its essence is worth inheriting and developing.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：江南大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2009
【分類號】：TS941.6

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本文編號：1628469