本文關(guān)鍵詞：后現(xiàn)代“破”裝飾手法在服裝上的運用分析及研究　出處：《北京服裝學(xué)院》2010年碩士論文　論文類型：學(xué)位論文

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【摘要】：本文基于當(dāng)代服裝上以破爛為裝飾的現(xiàn)象進(jìn)行研究,分析“破”裝飾手法的形制、應(yīng)用和發(fā)展趨勢,獲得一定的設(shè)計指導(dǎo)意義,并利用研究結(jié)果自行設(shè)計實踐。 受后現(xiàn)代思潮反精英、反傳統(tǒng)、去中心的影響,服裝設(shè)計領(lǐng)域出現(xiàn)“破”裝飾手法。經(jīng)濟(jì)的發(fā)達(dá)、社會的開放,環(huán)保和懷舊的心理要求,個性化的需要,品牌辨識度和設(shè)計感的增加都是后現(xiàn)代“破”裝飾產(chǎn)生和發(fā)展的原因。它們通常表現(xiàn)為毛邊、破洞、裂痕、滑絲或是做舊、補(bǔ)丁和破爛重疊。在裝飾位置上,或強(qiáng)調(diào)功能與裝飾并重,或強(qiáng)調(diào)高調(diào)但不低俗的裸露,借以達(dá)到體現(xiàn)性感的目的。比較傳統(tǒng)裝飾手法而言,后現(xiàn)代“破”裝飾不具有吉祥祈福的含義,更加注重視覺沖擊,而且不同裝飾手法混用,為達(dá)裝飾目的,不擇破爛手段。通過分析以乞丐裝起家的川久保玲作品、維維安.韋斯特伍德的朋克感破爛、打破結(jié)構(gòu)的侯賽因.卡拉揚(yáng)作品和夏奈爾品牌上的優(yōu)雅高貴“破”裝飾,兼以比較街頭最大眾、最新潮、最實穿的后現(xiàn)代“破”裝飾運用,體現(xiàn)了本身破爛殘缺但又五光十色的后現(xiàn)代“破”裝飾手法求新、求變、求異的裝飾規(guī)律,并在個人的設(shè)計作品中進(jìn)行了一定的實踐。
[Abstract]:Based on the study of the phenomenon of rags as decoration on contemporary clothing, this paper analyzes the shape, application and development trend of "broken" decoration techniques, and obtains certain design guidance significance. The research results are used to design the practice. Under the influence of anti-elite, anti-tradition and centeredness of postmodernism, the field of clothing design is characterized by "broken" decoration techniques, economic development, social openness, environmental protection and nostalgic psychological requirements, and individualized needs. The increase in brand recognition and design sense is the reason for the emergence and development of post-modern "broken" decoration. They are usually shown as edges, holes, cracks, slips or old, patched and ragged overlaps. Or the emphasis on function and decoration, or the emphasis on high profile but not vulgar nudity, in order to achieve the purpose of sexy. Compared with traditional decoration techniques, post-modern "broken" decoration does not have the meaning of auspicious blessing. Pay more attention to visual shock, and different decorative techniques mixed, for the purpose of decoration, do not choose the means of rags. Through the analysis of the beggar clothes of Kawabo Ling works, Vivian Westwood's punk sense of rags. The broken structure of Hussein Karajan works and Chanel brand elegant "broken" decoration, and to compare the street the most popular, the most fashionable, the most solid wear of post-modern "broken" decoration. It embodies the decorative law of its own ragged and incomplete but colorful post-modern "broken" decoration techniques, which seeks for new, changing and different decoration methods, and has carried on certain practice in individual design works.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：北京服裝學(xué)院
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2010
【分類號】：J523.5

【引證文獻(xiàn)】

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