【摘要】：唐代女性裙裝款式繁多,色彩艷麗,整體風格上體現出雍容華貴,富麗大度；宋代女性裙裝則以淡雅、簡潔、便利的特點顯著。 唐代經濟發(fā)達,與少數民族在貿易及文化上交往頻繁,上至君主下至臣民思想相對開放,織造業(yè)發(fā)達,這些都為女性裙裝的發(fā)展提供了很好的條件與基礎。唐代女性裙裝從初唐到中晚唐,自身也發(fā)生了一些改革和變化。唐代出現幾款代表性的女裙：條紋裙與暈裥裙,石榴裙,百鳥毛裙,金縷裙。 宋代織造業(yè)也比較發(fā)達,但由于連年和少數民族發(fā)生戰(zhàn)亂,邊疆不穩(wěn),國庫空虛,加上人們的思想當時受程朱理學的影響較大,趨于嚴謹、保守,服飾風格較之前朝發(fā)生重大轉變,體現在女性裙裝上則表現為清雅娟秀,簡潔便利。這時候的幾款代表女裙有：百褶裙與旋裙,合歡掩裙,銷金衣裙。 從唐代到宋代,女裙的基本特征和整體風格都發(fā)生了轉變,其中包括女裙紋樣質地的變化、女裙色彩的變化、女裙長度與幅度的變化、女裙穿著搭配方式的變化。 女性裙裝之所以在唐代和宋代呈現出兩種不同的風格,其原因是多方面的,不僅包括政治、經濟、文化的影響,還有服裝自身發(fā)展規(guī)律的作用。將唐代和宋代女性裙裝做一個對比研究,探討其發(fā)展演變規(guī)律,分析其對后世裙裝的影響,對于服裝學或是歷史學都有一定的研究意義。
[Abstract]:There are many styles of female skirt in Tang Dynasty, the color is gorgeous, the whole style is elegant and rich, while the female dress in Song Dynasty is elegant, concise and convenient. The economic development of Tang Dynasty, the frequent exchange of trade and culture with ethnic minorities, the relatively open thinking from the monarch to the subjects, and the developed weaving industry all provided a good condition and foundation for the development of women's skirt. From the early Tang Dynasty to the mid-late Tang Dynasty, some reforms and changes have taken place in the female skirt dress of the Tang Dynasty. Tang Dynasty appeared several representative women's skirt: striped skirt and dizzy skirt, pomegranate skirt, hundred bird hair skirt, golden witch skirt. The weaving industry in the Song Dynasty was also relatively developed, but as a result of the successive years of war with ethnic minorities, the border was unstable, the national treasury was empty, and people's thoughts were greatly influenced by Cheng Zhu's Confucianism at that time, and tended to be rigorous and conservative. Dress style than before to a major change, reflected in the women's skirt is elegant and elegant, concise and convenient. At this time, there are several women's skirts: pleated skirt and rotary skirt, masquerade skirt, gold dress. From Tang Dynasty to Song Dynasty, the basic characteristics and overall style of women's skirt have been changed, including the change of pattern texture, color, length and amplitude of women's skirt, and the change of matching style of women's skirt. There are two different styles of female dress in Tang Dynasty and Song Dynasty. The reasons are various, including not only the influence of politics, economy and culture, but also the function of the development law of clothing itself. This paper makes a comparative study of female dress in Tang Dynasty and Song Dynasty, probes into its development and evolution rule, and analyzes its influence on later generations of skirt dress. It is of certain significance for the study of clothing or history.
【學位授予單位】：鄭州大學
【學位級別】：碩士
【學位授予年份】：2012
【分類號】：J523.5

【參考文獻】

相關期刊論文 前10條

1 張琳琳;;從開放到簡約:唐宋服飾文化的變易特征[J];安慶師范學院學報(社會科學版);2008年11期

2 包銘新;傳閻立本《步輦圖》與隋唐高腰掩乳女裝[J];東華大學學報(自然科學版);2001年05期

3 余敏;;淺析唐宋女裝風尚的轉型[J];江西教育學院學報(社會科學);2006年02期

4 徐仂;;論“程朱理學”對宋代服飾的影響[J];美術大觀;2008年05期

5 徐頌列;唐詩中的“裙”芻議[J];寧波大學學報(人文科學版);2003年04期

6 唐永霞;;論唐宋時期婦女服飾隱含的審美趨向[J];中國輕工教育;2006年03期

7 王彬;馮澤民;;芻議宋代服飾的審美特點及影響[J];紡織科技進展;2009年05期

8 陶輝;淺析唐代社會文化的包容性與女裝風格的多樣性[J];四川絲綢;2003年04期

9 顏勁松;;成都地區(qū)宋代墓葬出土陶俑服飾研究[J];四川文物;2006年01期

10 于少先;;德安宋墓出土絲織品與服飾初探[J];絲綢;1992年09期

相關碩士學位論文 前2條

1 朱偉;唐代女俑造型研究[D];景德鎮(zhèn)陶瓷學院;2011年

2 周平;唐宋兩代女性服飾比較研究[D];蘇州大學;2008年

，

本文編號：2450817