本文選題：北魏　切入點：鮮卑族　出處：《東華大學(xué)》2012年碩士論文

【摘要】：中國隋唐以后的常服,是受到北魏鮮卑族服飾影響而形成的。因此,北魏鮮卑族服飾在中國古代服飾發(fā)展史中的地位十分重要。孝文帝改革后,北魏鮮卑服飾明顯受到了中原漢服的影響,同時,漢服也反過來受鮮卑族服飾的影響。兩者在相互影響融合中趨同,當時流行于南北朝的埓褶便是最有力的證明。而這種帶有明顯漢服因素的埓褶出現(xiàn)流行正是在北魏鮮卑族服飾中。 建國后,北朝服飾的研究工作一度比較滯后和薄弱,與國內(nèi)不斷高漲的古代服飾研究熱潮嚴重脫節(jié)。可喜的是,隨著近20年來北朝考古取得了重大進展,為北朝服飾研究提供了豐富的考古資料,同時越來越多的學(xué)者開始關(guān)注北朝服飾史。在孝文帝改革的影響下,鮮卑服飾發(fā)生了巨大的變化,北朝以后的服飾都是以北魏變革后的服飾為基礎(chǔ)的。因此,北魏服飾可以說對整個北朝服飾的發(fā)展意義非凡。目前,對北魏服飾進行過研究的主要有黃良瑩、宋丙玲等人,他們對北魏服飾的研究著眼于整個北朝時期,研究方法主要是典型性研究,對于鮮卑族本民族著裝獨特的發(fā)展脈絡(luò)缺乏關(guān)注,忽略了北魏當時著裝的民族性。為了彌補前人研究的不足以及為后人進一步研究北朝服飾及其發(fā)展脈絡(luò)奠定基礎(chǔ),本文針對北魏時期鮮卑族服飾的著裝進行研究。 由于鮮卑族沒有自己的文字,古代文獻中對鮮卑族服飾的記載十分有限,北魏鮮卑族服飾的研究材料主要來源于墓葬資料和佛教造像。因此,筆者首先對鮮卑族北魏考古資料進行大規(guī)模的收集。其次,在掌握大量北魏考古資料的基礎(chǔ)上,對材料進行研究,篩選出能反映北魏鮮卑族著裝的有效資料。第三對考古資料中出現(xiàn)的人物進行分類,從北魏不同身份的人物穿著入手研究,宏觀地研究北魏鮮卑族服飾的款式與種類。最后,通過統(tǒng)計學(xué)的方法計算出北魏不同時期不同服飾的流行度,對北魏前后兩個時期不同的流行服飾研究北魏前后鮮卑族的著裝變化,得出鮮卑族服飾發(fā)展脈絡(luò)和漢服對鮮卑族服飾的影響。
[Abstract]:After the Sui and Tang dynasties, the Chinese dress was influenced by the Northern Wei Xianbei nationality.Therefore, the Northern Wei Xianbei costume in the history of Chinese ancient dress development is very important.After the reform of Emperor Xiaowen, Xianbei dress of the Northern Wei Dynasty was obviously influenced by the Han clothing of the Central Plains, and at the same time, the clothes of the Han Dynasty were also influenced by the clothes of the Xianbei nationality.They converge in the influence of each other, and the fold popular in the Southern and Northern dynasties is the most powerful proof.This kind of fold with obvious Han clothing factor is popular in the Northern Wei Dynasty Xianbei nationality clothing.After the founding of the people's Republic of China, the research on the clothing of the Northern Dynasty was lagged and weak, which was out of touch with the upsurge of the ancient dress research in China.Fortunately, along with the great progress of the Northern Dynasty archaeology in the past 20 years, it provides abundant archaeological materials for the study of the Northern dynasties dress, and at the same time, more and more scholars begin to pay attention to the Northern Dynasty dress history.Under the influence of the reform of Emperor Xiaowen, Xianbei dress has undergone great changes, and the clothes after the Northern Dynasty are all based on the clothes after the Northern Wei Dynasty reform.Therefore, the Northern Wei Dynasty clothing can be said to the development of the entire North Dynasty clothing significance.At present, there are mainly Huang Liangying, Song Bingling and others who have studied the dress of the Northern Wei Dynasty. Their research on the dress of the Northern Wei Dynasty is focused on the whole period of the Northern Dynasty, and the research method is mainly typical.Lack of attention to the unique development of Xianbei nationality's dress, ignored the nationality of the Northern Wei Dynasty.In order to make up for the deficiency of previous studies and to lay a foundation for future generations to further study the clothing and its development of the Northern Wei Dynasty, this paper studies the dress of Xianbei nationality in the Northern Wei Dynasty.Because Xianbei people do not have their own characters, the ancient literature on the clothes of Xianbei nationality is very limited. The research materials of Xianbei nationality clothing in the Northern Wei Dynasty mainly come from the materials of tombs and Buddhist statues.Therefore, the author first of all the Northern Wei Dynasty Xianbei archaeological data for a large-scale collection.Secondly, on the basis of mastering a large number of archaeological data of the Northern Wei Dynasty, this paper studies the materials and selects the effective materials which can reflect the dress of the Xianbei nationality in the Northern Wei Dynasty.The third part classifies the figures in the archaeological materials and studies the styles and types of the clothes of the Xianbei nationality in the Northern Wei Dynasty from the perspective of the dress of the characters of different identities in the Northern Wei Dynasty.Finally, the popularity of different clothes in different periods of Northern Wei Dynasty was calculated by statistical method, and the change of dress of Xianbei nationality before and after the Northern Wei Dynasty was studied.The development of Xianbei costume and the influence of Han suit on Xianbei dress are obtained.
【學(xué)位授予單位】：東華大學(xué)
【學(xué)位級別】：碩士
【學(xué)位授予年份】：2012
【分類號】：J523.5

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